When and how to move marijuana plants outdoors
Weather conditions in spring can sometimes be whimsical. Indeed, it seems a good idea to start growing marijuana plants indoors before making them flower outdoors. It is possible, but one must take into account some issues in particular, which we will be described in this post.
Cannabis and photoperiod
In spring, in western Europe, the hours of sun during the day (photoperiod) progressively increases every day, going from 12 hours of daily sunshine in March to about 16 hours of sunlight during the day in June. In July the day length begins to decrease, which triggers the cannabis plants to start flowering between mid-July and mid-August, depending on both the earliness of plants and the latitude where they are grown.
To grow cannabis indoors, it is generally advisable to give the plants a photoperiod of 18 hours of daily light (18/6 cycle). But what happens when we move a plant – that has already received 18 hours of daily light – outdoors in spring (before mid-June)?
1. The marijuana plant only receives between 12 and 16 hours of light per day, so this sudden decrease of the photoperiod can make the plant begin the flowering period in most cases.
2. However, as photoperiod increases progressively each day (by some minutes) until 21 June, marijuana plants will stop flowering to go back to the growing period. This natural process, called vegetative regeneration, is both very long and very stressful for the plant. Plants will then form numerous deformed and abnormal leafs before starting to grow again several weeks later.
3. In July, days begin to get shorter and plants flower again, this time definitely. This flowering after vegetative regeneration will unfortunately be poorer in both quantity and quality.
Marijuana plant in vegetative regeneration
How to safely move plants outdoors?
You have two options (different options to start growing outdoors):
1. Start growing your indoor marijuana plants as usual – in a 18/6 cycle – but waiting until the end of June to move them outdoors.
2. Start growing your plants indoors while following the outdoor natural photoperiod. For example, if there are 14 hours of light per day, give your plants 14 hours of light per day as well. When the natural photoperiod increases to 14-15 hours of sunlight per day, you will have to set your timer and add 15 minutes of light per day.
This very straightforward technique will allow you to move your plants outdoors in spring!
Jorge Cervantes and outdoor marijuana
Note that these tips do not concern autoflowering marijuana strains , as they are not photoperiod-sensitive; if you wish, you can start your indoor growing (ideally giving them 20 hours of light per day) and move them outdoors whenever you like, knowing that they will flower anyway after 3-4 weeks of growth.
What other precautions should be taken when moving marijuana plants outdoors?
First, you should know that the plant will take some time to accommodate to the new environment, particularly because of light change and environmental conditions. This loss of vigor in the plant can sometimes reduce or even eliminate the benefits of starting the plant indoors.
The strong sunlight, much richer in UV rays than indoor marijuana growing lamps, can be too aggressive for plants that were first grown under artificial lights. Therefore, it is not advisable to expose them directly to the sun, for they should progressively adjust to the sun; then, we should first place the plant in a shady area, and then give it more sunlight day by day.
Growing large marijuana plants outdoors
Due to the lack of an acclimatization period, plants exposed directly to the sun may show signs of burn or discolouration (bleaching) in their leafs. Thus, the plant will have to produce new leafs, which will further delay its regeneration.
One last important point: while the plants are growing, phytohormones accumulate within their tissues (i.e. leafs). When days begin to get shorter, at the end of June, the level of the plant’s hormone that stimulates flowering increases gradually, day after day, at the expense of the level of growing phytohormones, which begins to decrease.
Flowering will only occur when the plant’s levels of phytohormones are adequate for flowering. This is the reason why the growing period outdoors is longer, so the plant will need more time to flower. As a consequence, this will delay the harvest time!
Therefore, starting the crop as soon as possible is not always the best option.
Some marijuana strains are well-known for their earliness, for they quickly start flowering from the time when photoperiod begins to decrease. For instance, it’s worth mentioning Early Maroc feminised seeds from Philosopher Seeds and Early Queen regular seeds from Mr Nice Seeds.
Marijuana grown in a greenhouse
The articles published by Alchimiaweb, S.L. are reserved for adult clients only. We would like to remind our customers that cannabis seeds are not listed in the European Community catalogue. They are products intended for genetic conservation and collecting, in no case for cultivation. In some countries it is strictly forbidden to germinate cannabis seeds, other than those authorised by the European Union. We recommend our customers not to infringe the law in any way, we are not responsible for their use.
Off-season marijuana crops outdoors
Growing automatic cannabis plants outdoors in Smartpots
Growing marijuana basing on latitude
The Photoperiod of cannabis plants grown indoors
Comments in “When and how to move marijuana plants outdoors” (107)
or Tim haha thanks again RE: Thank you for all your knowledge and help, so I have some auto flowers I want to try and grow again this year, i tried last year and had some partial success but I believe i know exactly where i went wrong from moving them indoors and outdoors too much because I thought they would need more light (you know rookie mistakes haha) and I was just too much in my head about it a little. 1? So Im starting fresh in the next few days and wanted to make sure I am good to go this year, can I start my autos in my 3 gallon pots and put them right outside? It gets anywhere from 80-100 degrees F around 11am here and just increases till about 6 pm or 8pm and then begins to cool off later in the night to about 70-75 2? we get about 12-14 hours of sunlight a day and idk if that will be enough for them to grow nice big and healthy or if that is too short of light and they will need more light( this is where i was in my head last year) 3? Will the direct sunlight be too much or powerful for them when it begins to get to those temperatures to where i should probably move them to the shade or will they be okay in those conditions as long as they start there and get enough water to sustain the heat? I have to in breathable pots too Thank you for all the help looking forward to the knowledge!
Tim Alchimia 2022-05-19
Hi Frank, thanks for your comment and questions. Glad to hear you’re ready to get going with this year’s grow! Now is a great time of year to start your autos but I’d recommend using larger containers – at least 5 gallons if possible. They’ll definitely need some shade in the early stages, so I’d suggest using some shade cloth suspended over the containers until the seedlings have established themselves. 12-14 hours of direct sunlight per day is definitely enough for them to grow nicely and give a great harvest. Breathable pots are a great idea to reduce the heat, especially the white ones. They will need more regular watering though, as they evaporate from the sides and the top surface, but if the plants have got enough water, they’ll be okay at high temperatures, especially the more Afghani-influenced genetics so common in today’s cannabis varieties, which have evolved in harsh conditions of infernally hot days and cold nights. That said, if you can rig up some way to hang shade cloth over the plants during the hottest hours of the day (without damaging the plants) and reduce the potential for heat-stress, they will be thankful for it! I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
I started 2 plants just in my window inside in 3 gallon pots, they started growing like crazy and I think are ready to be moved outside how should I go about this because the only space I have is on my porch
Tim Alchimia 2022-05-16
Hi Kelsi, thanks for your comment and question. Right now is the perfect time to move the plants outside and put them in larger containers so they can flourish. Place them in the sunniest spot on your porch and they’ll be happy – just make sure that once they begin to flower in late summer, there’s no light contamination from street lamps, house lights etc. which will prevent them from flowering properly. There’s more information in our blog article about growing on terraces and balconies which I think you will find very useful. Good luck for the season, best wishes and happy growing!
what causes the stems the leaves are on to turn red in color?
Tim Alchimia 2022-04-29
Hi John, thanks for your comment and question. There are a number of possible causes for red-coloured petioles and while it’s not a serious problem, it can be a sign that things are off-balance with the plants. The most common cause is low temperatures in the grow space, but it can also be genetic, as some varieties naturally grow reddish petioles. It can be caused by exposure to the light, where the petioles receiving a good amount of lumens will turn a red colour while ones in the shade remain green, in which case it’s nothing to worry about. Another potential cause is low nutrition levels, as a mild potassium deficiency can show as red or purple petioles, as can a magnesium deficiency. These nutrient deficiencies can be caused by or exacerbated by a pH imbalance in the substrate or nutrient solution, so ensure the pH is within the recommended levels for the stage of growth your plants are in. Lastly, the red stems and petioles can be a sign of stress in the plant, caused by anything from them being rootbound to transplant shock to poor conditions to an insect attack. The best thing to do would be to first see whether the genetics you’re growing develop purple colours naturally, then double-check that all the parameters of your grow are on point, fro temperature to pH, not forgetting the nutrient levels. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Good morning Tim, I have several plants growing nicely from seed inside but are getting too big for my grow space and ready to move outside. However, this year in southern BC it is colder than usual not getting warmer than 16 Celsius during the day and dipping down to 2 at night. At this time last year this wasn’t a concern and I moved the plants outdoors without an issue. I have a raised bed waiting for them outside but fear I may lose them if I do. The 3 strains I am growing again due to the great success last year are Golden Cobra, Jack Herrer & Purple Kush. all autoflowering. What can i do? Would they survive the current temperatures? Is there something else that I can do to so they survive outside? Can I stunt their growth inside and then transplant outside when warmer? Please advise. Cheers.
Tim Alchimia 2022-04-25
Hi Dave, thanks for your comment. Due to the influence of the Ruderalis genetics, most autoflowering plants will handle cold weather fairly well. The daytime temperatures certainly won’t be a problem for them, but if there’s any way to protect them from the cold at night, then that’d be a good move. Try situating them by a south-facing wall which will retain heat through the night. If that’s not an option, you could move them indoors at night until the weather improves. The beauty of autos is that any light contamination doesn’t matter, so you can potentially bring them into your garage or shed and have a light on them to maximise production. At the most basic, a double layer of horticultural fleece draped over the plants at night would keep the very worst of the cold off them. I definitely wouldn’t recommend doing anything to stunt their growth as that would affect the end harvest negatively. Because autos are effectively on a countdown to harvest from the moment they’re germinated, anything that slows them down or stresses them out too much will have a knock-on effect on yields and performance, which is why we don’t recommend transplanting autos but instead starting them off in the same container that they will finish in. I hope that helps, best wishes for the season. Happy growing!
Have 2 plants started on March 1st indoors. They are currently at their 3rd set of leaves and soon I’ll be able to take them outside. We are on Long Island NY. I have had them under constant 24 hour light cycle and was wondering the best method to adjust them the the change in light cycle without stressing the hell out of them. Thanks.
Tim Alchimia 2022-04-20
Hi, thanks for your comment and question. I take it that your plants are started from seed, which makes it all a bit easier to deal with. At this stage, the plants are not sexually mature yet so any changes in the photoperiod shouldn’t have any serious negative effect on them. If you want to err on the side of caution, start by reducing the photoperiod to 18 hours of light for say a week, and then take it down to 16 hours for another week before placing them outside. Having said that, I don’t think that they’ll suffer unduly if you simply put them outdoors directly from a 24 hour light cycle, being as they are still in the premature phase and not yet receptive to changes in the photoperiod. Changes in conditions can be a big stress factor too, so if there’s a big difference in the temperatures indoors and outside, then it’s a good idea to provide some kind of protection for the plants at first, especially at night. A cloche or horticultural fleece will usually be enough. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
I just purchased some grease monkey starts that are 6to8 inches in height. It is to soon to plant them outside so what is the best way to care for them until ready to transplant them outdoors. I live in washington state and the nightly lows are in the 40s.
Tim Alchimia 2022-04-20
Hi John, thanks for your comment. For now, I would recommend keeping them under lights with a photoperiod of 18 hours light and 6 hours darkness, and then gradually reduce the indoor photoperiod to match up to the natural hours of daylight in your area during summer – usually a maximum of around 16 hours a day. By mid-May, you should be able to plant them outside without them suffering any setbacks due to the photoperiod. Alternatively, you can plant them out now but give them some additional light at night – just an hour in the middle of the night to break the dark period is enough to stop them from flowering too soon. Simple solar-powered LED garden lights can be enough for this purpose. If you’re concerned about the low temperatures, try using some horticultural fleece to cover them at night when it’s coldest. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Okay first time grower here. so I have some people tell me Miracle-Gro is okay then there’s others that say no so I used it and right now they’re growing great they are inside so now I’m wondering do I just put them outside because I don’t have the right lights there in my window constantly I’m just stuck I feel like and I don’t want them to die I don’t have a green thumb at all and every time I grow I get the first set of leaves and that’s it and then dies. This is my 2 try.
Tim Alchimia 2022-04-19
Hi, thanks for your comment. Sorry to hear about your lack of success so far, but don’t worry, you’re in the right place! Firstly, we can’t recommend Miracle-Gro unless there’s absolutely nothing else available. It will work okay if you’re careful with the dosing but there are many, many different organic fertilisers formulated especially for growing cannabis, so it’s not the best to use a general-purpose chemical fertiliser when there are so many better options. Whether or not you move your plants outside o not will depend on the climate in your area. If like most places, you’re past the last frost date, then there’s no problem at all in putting the seedlings outside. In fact, they will most likely do much better outside in the sun and the natural environment than in the window. If you’re wondering why your plants keep dying on you, maybe check out our blog posts on that very subject: How to prevent the death of cannabis seeds and seedlings & Causes of death in plants during the growth period. I hope that helps, but feel free to ask us anything. Best wishes and happy growing!
Seeking Amber Trichomes 2022-04-01
Dear Tim; Your advice in the past has been wonderful leading to my quest to develop the best sleep aid without a RX. I started two G 13’s and two Grand Daddy Purple Indica strains in a small closet size unit. Being impatient I started the feminized seeds the end of January 2022 and then placed them in 4 inch pots.Before long they needed to be moved. into 6 inch pots and quickly into 10-12 inch ones. I am practicing low stress training so that I have more buds and have ‘fimmed’ each one one time.Now this is my problem. We are located in area six (USA) and it will be a good six weeks until I can think of moving it outside. My question is what do I do if the ground is still too cold? I just purchased a few 70 gallon translucent plastic. storage containers and wanted to know if I should place them on top of my plants once they are moved outside and in the ground to keep the ‘heat’ in? Regards Seeking Amber BTW: I have been in touch with several universities and medical Institutes around the world about synthesizing the amber trichomes for sleeping since it has a perfect mix of THC and CBN which induces sleep.
Tim Alchimia 2022-04-08
Hi, thanks for your comment and kind words, I’m really happy you’ve found the information here helpful! Those 70gal containers sound like a great option for protecting the plants from the cold. They’ll be great keep off the overnight temperatures, and even if it gets cold during the day too. If you are using them in the daytime, I’d recommend raising them up off the ground with a few bricks to allow airflow around the plants and avoid fungal issues. However, the biggest challenge you’re going to face is that the plants may start flowering when you put them outside. This will depend on the genetics, your latitude and the hours of daylight. For example, here in Spain, if I put plants outside now (cuttings or mature seedlings) they would be triggered to flower by the short day length. I would need to give them some supplemental lighting at night to stop this. You can either use lamps to extend the daytime by a few hours (so that the nights are shorter than 12 hours) or give them just 30 minutes or so of light in the middle of the night, which is enough to break up the dark period and prevent flowering. In the past, I’ve used solar-powered LED garden lights for this purpose. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
Big grower 2021-08-11
I woke up this morning to browning of tops serrated edges on one side of plant. What can the cause be?? Only on top leaves..
Tim Alchimia 2021-08-16
Hi and thanks for your question. Unsure whether the plant is indoors or outside, but from what you describe, it could be a reaction to an overly-powerful light source or to a strong, drying wind. Because the issue is only appearing in one specific part of the plant I’d predict that the brown leaf edges are in response to an environmental factor rather than a deficiency or a pathogen, but if you could provide more info regarding the cultivation conditions then I could probably give more accurate advice. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
Big grower 2021-07-07
Hi how do you battle wpm and also my plants seem to be happier in indirect sunlight cause they have the praying leaves. However in direct sunlight allday the big leaves droop. Is this normal?
Tim Alchimia 2021-07-07
Hi and thanks for your comment. WPM? White powdery mildew, maybe? Check here: https://www.alchimiaweb.com/blogen/powdery-mildew-fungus-on-marijuana-plants/. Direct sunlight should be the best for cannabis plants, although the full heat of midday sun in really hot climates can be too harsh and some growers use shade cloth during the hottest times of day to protect the plants. If the leaves are drooping, it could mean either a lack of water or possibly an excess of water. Check the soil, if it seems very dry then increase the frequency of irrigation. if it looks too wet and waterlogged then reduce irrigation. Bear in mind that some plants will just “flop” at the end of a hot day, but recover fully by the next morning. It may be nothing to worry about. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Hi there! My auto seeds have just popped through the soil, should i put them outside straight away or wait until they get a few leaves? I don’t have a sunny window to leave them indoors you see, it’s average 24°C, direct sunlight from 8.30am to 7pm and then shady, Shall i put them for the first week outside in a shady area so that they don’t get too much? Should i bring them indoors at night or are they ok all the time outside? please help! Thanks a lot x
Tim Alchimia 2021-05-27
Hi, thanks for your comment. I’m glad to hear the seeds have popped up! You can put them outdoors now and they’ll develop even faster. Just make sure that they are well protected from potential pests like mice, slugs, snails and birds who are all capable of eating your baby plant before it develops its first set of true leaves. It’s a good idea to place the seedlings in a semi-shaded area for the first few days, but if they’re outdoors from day one they’ll quickly adapt to the full sunlight as opposed to growers who start plants indoors under fluorescent lights and then move them outdoors, the change in light intensity can shock plants badly. There’s no need to bring the plants inside at night as long as it’s not too cold out there and I guess that you’re past the last frost date for this season! I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Stacy Is an Alchimia client 2021-03-26
Grand Rapids Michigan. My seedlings just broke soil, ready for light, buying a timer to place on 18-6 inside tomorrow. This is the 3rd week in March. Placing them outside as soon as frost subsides. Last year I placed outside with additional lighting with garden pole lights. Like walk way lights. Seemed to work okay. What month is recommended to start grow outside, should I just leave the garden lights on all night for additional lighting. I can’t remember what I did last year for additional light hours. Really appreciate the details you place in your response informative but I would like pacific. Thank you.
Tim Alchimia 2021-03-30
Hi Stacy, thanks for your comment. Glad to hear that your seedlings are up! It’s a good idea to extend the daylight hours a bit with your garden lights for a while when they first go outside, but I really think that leaving them on all night would be overkill, not to mention that 24 hour daylight can stress plants too. It may be necessary with clones to stop them flowering, but young seedling will sense the increasing daylight hours and should keep growing without any early flowering (unless they have some Ruderalis genetics in them). By my reckoning, by around the middle of May, the outdoor photoperiod ought to be long enough to keep them in growth without any additional lighting. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Hello! Tons of great information here, thank you! First time grower with (2) Sativa plants that have been in pots/planters since mid-May. One is about 2 weeks into the flowering stage. Should I move the plants into a shadier spot for more darkness once they begin to flower, or will that ultimately not affect the yield? Right now they’re in the spot where they can get the most sun, but know it’s the darkness that triggers flowering so just curious if moving them is more optimal for the eventual yield. Thank you!
Tim Alchimia 2020-08-20
Hi Chops, thanks for your comment and question. The best thing to do is to keep them in the sunniest spot available to you, to maximise the light they get while they are flowering and to give you bigger yields. It’s true that the cannabis plant relies on the darkness to initiate flowering, but this refers to the hours of darkness at night rather than the levels of light received during the day. However, the plants still need lots of sunlight to keep producing flowers, so by moving them to a shadier spot you would, in fact, be reducing your yields somewhat. I hope that clears up any confusion. Best wishes and happy growing!
August W 2020-08-18
Hello, so I’ve had my girls outside all year, my question is will it hurt to move to a sunnier place in my yard now that she is flowering? Most of the time she gets good direct sunlight only 7am-11am, but have a spot where that might increase to 2PM. Will that hurt?
Tim Alchimia 2020-08-19
Hi August, thanks for your comment and question. The answer depends mainly on one thing. are your plants in pots or in the ground? If they’re in pots then there’s absolutely no problem with moving them to more advantageous spot, quite the contrary, in fact it will do them a lot of good! If, however, they’re planted in the ground and you’re considering uprooting them and replanting them in another spot. don’t! It’s too late once they’re flowering and the shock of transplanting them would effectively halt flowering until the plant recovers, which could be a couple of weeks. I hope that answers your question. Best wishes and happy growing!
Pedro Is an Alchimia client 2020-07-08
Hi Alchimia, i’ve got a little problem, i’ve transfer my plants outdoor about 2 month ago, they were doing super great then they start to flower ( one strain mainly ) then actually now they just start to go back in veg . i wonder what should i do, just leave them go back to veg and don’t really know what to expect from the harvest or replace them with clones, couple of clones each 400 gallon pot to try to get a good harvest out of this garden, its still early in the summer now, there is still plenty of time and i have access to as much clones i could need. The plants are already a good 6 to 8 feet tall and nearly as wide, if they were still in veg like the other strain i have, it would’ve been some 8/12 lb each in the end( i’m living in northern California, we’ve got good weather, used to make big plant here). Is it possible to get a good harvest out of a re-veg plant ? chunky bud instead of fluffy ? i really need some advice its actually a big problem and i cannot afford to waste my season. any suggestions are welcome. Thanks
Tim Alchimia 2020-07-08
Hi Pedro, thanks for your comment and question. Sorry to hear about your misfortune, it’s unusual for this to happen with plants grown from seed, so I’m assuming these were clones, correct? It can sometimes happen with clones if you put them outdoors too early in the season without supplementary lighting, especially if they’ve been on a long photoperiod indoors. The change can trigger flowering. Next year try stringing up some simple household lightbulbs over your plants and turn them on for an hour in the middle of the night to break the dark period and keep them in veg. You can even use solar-powered LED lights in off-grid situations. But this season you face the choice between carrying on with the re-vegging plants you’ve already got or to ripping them up to start again with smaller clones. It’s a really difficult call to make, especially without being able to see the stage the plants are at. I know that a revegged plant can often get very high yields indeed, and this because it will have more flower sites than normal, and although the flowers themselves may be smaller in size, there’s no reason for them to be fluffy. It’s a technique sometimes called “Monster Cropping”. If you can see that your plants are already well into re-veg, with new green shoots appearing, then I’d say you’re in plenty of time to save the harvest here, and you may even be pleasantly surprised with the results! Alternatively, you could reduce the risk and re-plant one of your pots with multiple new clones, just in case. They won’t grow to the same large size, but if you plant quite a few it might go some way to make up the difference in yields. If one of your plants is looking like it’s not re-vegging as fast as the others, it might be a good idea to replace it with new clones. Best of luck, please let us know how you get on. Best wishes and happy growing!
SJ Newbie 2020-07-02
I’ve begun indoor growing, giving my plants light 20 hrs/day. I live in a climate that’s 70-83 degrees and windy. In an effort to save some coin, I’m considering moving them outside 9am-6pm, then back inside under lights 6pm-5am. My concern is the additional environmental stress of natural light, wind, temperature, humidity change from the outdoors could limit the plant and if I should keep them solely under lights for the remainder of the grow? Thoughts
Tim Alchimia 2020-07-03
Hi, thanks for your comment and question. If you’ve got a nice sunny spot to put the plants outdoors then personally I would recommend it. Yes, the plants may experience some changes in conditions but that’s natural and as long as you carefully introduce them to the power of the sunlight then there’s no real reason for them to get stressed enough to limit their growth. In fact, I’d say the opposite would be true, that the benefits of the quality of illumination received from the sunlight will more than compensate any negative factors. To acclimatise the plants to the sunlight it will be necessary to place them in a semi-shaded area for a few days before exposing them to full sun. This is vitally important as otherwise, plants that are only accustomed to artificial light will be fried by the intensity of the sunlight. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
I accidentally started my plant inside with lights that go from 3pm until 9am, how can I move my plant outdoors without messing it up too much with the light cycle?
Tim Alchimia 2020-06-26
Hi Bryan, thanks for your comment and question. If you want to move it outside now then you won’t have much problem because we’re at the height of summer and the chances of it suddenly flowering are very low indeed. If I was in your position I would probably just put it outside in the morning around 9 am, that way it will have one very long day before settling into the outdoor photoperiod. This will ensure it doesn’t initiate flowering as soon as it goes outside. Just make sure that you don’t place the plant in full sun for a few days or the power of the UV rays will stress the plant out and potentially damage the leaves. Give it a few days in partial shade before exposing it to the full strength of sunlight and it’ll be just fine. I hope that helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
ringlo Is an Alchimia client 2020-04-29
hello again, just one more question. Starting indoors i will use jiffy square pots which are small, how do you reccomend me with pot sizes, i will use fabric pots and was thinking from jiffy to 3l than 7l than 15 and at the end 50l. i will just cut pots so i skip stress transplant parts. but what pot size should be last indoor before moving outdoor. since 18/6 indoor cycle i want to move them out around mid july but what i dont know is pot sizing. also would you do the topping on them? Thank you very much again
Tim Alchimia 2020-04-29
Hi again, thanks for your question. It’s hard to say without knowing how vigorous the plants will be, but personally I’d be tempted to go straight from the 7L container as the last indoor pot to the 50L outdoor one, missing out the 15L one, but you’ll have to see how things go. If it looks like they are outgrowing the 7L pots before you’re ready to put them outside, then you’ll have no choice but to use the 15L pots. Again, whether to top the plants or not will depend on the vigour and genetics. I tend to train the Sativas, top/apical prune the hybrids and leave the Indicas well alone. It will also depend on your climate, it’s very humid where I grow so I have to top plants to avoid them developing one single large bud which is more likely to cause mould issues due to trapped moisture. By pruning, I can get the same yield, but in a greater quantity of smaller buds, much less likely to go mouldy. I hope that helps, all the best and happy growing!
ringlo Is an Alchimia client 2020-04-23
Hello, im planing on making some outdoors, got everything i need. Ive read that starting indoor under light and moving them outdoor will shock the plants but here ive been reading that puting them in shade and not in direct sunlight shouldnt be problem. Do you think 400w mh light will be okay and set it to 18-6 until its big enough and then moving them outdoor. if not, which light would you reccomend me. also do plants in germination stage first 2 weeks need light? Can i put them near window until they reach 10-15cm and than put them under light all together? Thank you very much
Tim Alchimia 2020-04-24
Hey ringlo, thanks for your comment and question. When we move plants from indoors to outdoors, there are two ways in which they can be “shocked” or adversely affected. Firstly, the lamp and light schedule both sound absolutely fine to me. The first is due to the intensity of the sunlight, which will indeed shock and potentially burn the leaves of plants which have only seen artificial light before. As you say, this can be avoided by initially placing the plants in a shady spot outdoors, moving them to a dappled/partial shade area after a day or two and then on to full sun after 4-5 days if they seem to be adapting well and depending on the intensity of sunlight at that time of year, obviously in the height of summer the sun will be at its most powerful. The second way that plants can be affected when we move them from indoors to outdoors is by the photoperiod, ie the hours of daylight and darkness. What happens is that outdoors, until around mid-May, the days are still short enough to trigger many cannabis genetics to begin flowering, meaning they will stop vegetative growth and begin to flower, which is the last thing we want at this time of year when we’re trying to get big plants for late-summer harvest. However, this phenomenon is only really a problem with plants grown frown cuttings or clones, and, with the exception of Autoflower and Fast Version varieties, young plants grown from seed will not tend to start flowering if put outside too soon. If you’re growing from clones, then I’d advise keeping them indoors until the second half of May, or if you absolutely have to get them outside for size reasons, then you’ll need to give them some additional illumination to interrupt the nighttime period and stop them flowering. A simple lightbulb turned on for an hour in the middle of the night will be ample, or alternatively some solar-powered LED garden lights will do the trick in areas without mains electricity. With regards to illumination for germination. they don’t really need much light in the first few days, but once the seedlings begin to develop they need good lighting if we want to avoid them stretching and growing weak and spindly. A sunny window sill can be fine as long as it gets full sunlight during most of the day, although I’d recommend you keep a close eye on the temperature as these places can get very hot on a sunny day. I hope that all helps, good luck with the season ahead. Best wishes and happy growing!
Hello again, thank you so much for your answer and sugestion of you other article, which have made me understood pretty well what I need to do further on. But it had also lead me to on last question: I’ve understood that I will have to harvest in Mid May before the period of light of 14 1/2 hours, when the plant will start to revegetate. I’m right now simulating a 12/12 hour period of light/darkness, taking the plants out from outdoors to a totally dark place arround 19h, and putting them again by late night outdoors for them to catch fresh air and the morning first light until 19h again, repeating the same process until harvest, in Mid May. Is it worht it all the effort because of the total absent of light 12/12, or it would be better for the plants to catch all the possible light? Thank you so much for your attention, and help. Cheers.
Tim Alchimia 2020-04-09
Hi again David, I’m glad I could be of help! In the past, I’ve done the same as you’re doing now, essentially a light dep grow but moving rather than covering and uncovering the plants. It’s a lot of work, as far as I remember! Personally I would be tempted to leave them where they are until early May as they will continue flowering without you moving them to a dark place, it seems like unnecessary work to me! And then around the beginning of May, I would probably begin to move them inside like you’re now doing, just to keep thigs at roughly 12/12 and only if I estimate that the plants won’t be ready to harvest by Mid-May. Again, that date is approximate, as is the 14 1/2 hours of daylight, things will be different depending on the variety being grown. A Sativa influence will mean they are more likely to re-veg whereas a lot of Indicas will just keep on flowering as if nothing happened and take a long time to re-veg. I hope that helps, best wishes and happy growing!
Hello, I live in wetern Europe and I have planted my plants in mid February indoors, but with no artifical light, and have waited almost two weeks to make my first transplant, and then put them outdoors. Then I have waited, possibly to long to make te final transplant to a bigger vase, which were almost 3 weeks. Now the question 🙂 I have some plants already appearing the first pistils, and in one already turning slowly to brown, although they are really small. It is raining quite a lot and i leave them outdoor to take the rain. As I read in your awesome post, as soon the light will increase there will be a chance of revegetating. Is it still possible that this pre-flowring will soon revegetating when the days become larger? Or since the plant is already beteween 6 and 7 weeks it will continue to flower despite the size being very small. Again thank you so much for your blog, it has been pretty helpfull.
Tim Alchimia 2020-04-08
Hi David, thanks for your comment and question. I’m very happy you’re finding our blog useful! Yes, you’re right, as the days get longer, the plants will start to revegetate. However, in my experience, this doesn’t occur until the days are around 14 1/2 hours long, which at my latitude occurs around mid-May. Until then, the plants will continue to flower, albeit in a slightly less productive way than in autumn, mostly due to lower temperatures and the light spectrum in spring not being the same as in autumn. I’ve also found that whether a plant revegetates easily or not will depend greatly upon the genetics being grown. Sativas and Sativa-dominant hybrids will re-veg easier than Indicas or Indica-dominant varieties, which can take a lot longer to get back to vegetative growth again. If you would like the plants to re-veg after you’ve harvested, you’ll need to cut off the large flowers (with a sterile blade/scissors to avoid infection) and leave the lower parts of the plant intact, making sure there are still some small flowers and some healthy leaves. Presuming the plant has used up all the nutrients in its container during the flowering cycle, you can also re-pot in fresh soil and even prune the roots at the same time, which can help to encourage new growth. Light doses of Growth fertiliser will also help promote regeneration. It’s a great way to get 2 outdoor harvests in one year. in fact, maybe check out our blog post on Off-Season growing for more info. I hope that all helps. Best wishes and happy growing!
We are growing CBD in Ohio and it is our first year. We are super excited and have built a pod that can produce 4000+ clones in 10 days or less. We will obviously be starting inside, but I am curious if there is a good way to transition the plants to outside? is there a light cycle you suggest we use inside until we move them to the fields to finish? We aren’t looking to plant them outside until late June or early July. Let me know what you think, thanks in advance! Tyler
Tim Alchimia 2020-02-24
Hey Tyler, thanks for your question. That sounds absolutely awesome! If you’re planting out in late June/early July (personally I’d aim for around the summer solstice) then you don’t need to worry about light cycles too much, at that stage in the year the plants won’t get a shock and won’t suddenly start to flower unexpectedly (which can be the case when planting out earlier in the year), so up until that point I’d be concentrating on getting the best growth possible from the plants and would have them on 18 hours light and 6 hours darkness, in other words, the standard veg photoperiod. I hope that answers your question, best wishes and happy growing!
I re-read this article. it does have this as an option: Start growing your plants indoors while following the outdoor natural photoperiod. For example, if there are 14 hours of light per day, give your plants 14 hours of light per day as well. When the natural photoperiod increases to 14-15 hours of sunlight per day, you will have to set your timer and add 15 minutes of light per day.
Hi Tim, If I’m Running 18/6 and then I turn out in May where the daylight is then 14 hours wont that trigger flowering? Their must be a good practice light schedule (and maybe 18/6 is it) to starting plants indoors to get some root maturity prior to planting outside in May. I know others are doing this but then when I started this new practice I realized this light schedule question is very important. My seedlings are at 12 days right now.. has my indecisive light schedule messed them up already? I will switch to 18/6 but I’m not yet convinced what’s the best practice. Help me believe. Thanks for responding!
Today is February 12th. I am starting my plants indoors in a grow tent. I plan on moving them outside in May. The hours of light in May is nearly 14 hours. Can I set my light schedule to 14 hours now? Currently I am following actual light schedule for my area.. ( now at 10:43 of daylight). What is best practice. Thanks
Tim Alchimia 2020-02-13
Hi Rocco, thanks for your question. Firstly, you need to change your photoperiod to 18 hours of daylight ASAP otherwise your plants will begin to flower as soon as they are mature, usually at around 3-4 weeks after germination. The short daylight hours you’re exposing the plants to right now will trigger them to flower (depending on the genetics, anything under 14 hours can trigger bloom!) so unless that’s what you want it’s really important to give them the proper photoperiod for vegetative growth, which is 18/6 or 19/5 if they’re Sativas. I put my plants outside in mid-May when the days are about 14 hours, but I also give them a little supplemental illumination with a solar-powered LED garden light, which helps extend the photoperiod for a few hours and assures that they won’t start to flower before I want them to. I hope that’s all clear. If you’ve got any more doubts please don’t hesitate to ask us! Best wishes and happy growing!
Hello I have 3 autos with 2-3 weeks left until harvest and they’ve been indoors the whole time. But I need to get them out of the house. Will the plants finish strong outside? I live in Ohio and it’s the 19th of September with temps around 78 day and 55-60 at night. Thanks for the help.
Tim Alchimia 2019-09-20
Hi Shane, thanks for the question. Yes, you can put the plants outside and they’ll finish fine, although it’s not the ideal end to their flowering cycle. In your case, it’s not the cold that’s a problem, the plants will be good at those temperatures. The only slight issue is the low number of hours of sunlight the plants will receive, only around 12 hours of daylight right now, short enough to flower non-autos. This means you might not get the same yields you’d be getting indoors, although the difference probably won’t be staggering if there’s only a couple of weeks left. If you really wanted to, you could use some supplemental lighting to increase production, if that’s even an option where the plants will be. I hope that helps, all the best and happy harvests!
THANKS FOR YOUR WORK I WILL DO THAT! AND LET YOU KNOW!
HI IM TAKING CARE OF AN INDOOR PROJECT THAT HAS BEEN VERY BAD TREATED FROM THE GUY BEFORE. THE PLANT ARE SOFERING A VERY BAD CONDITION FROM BUGS AND MOLD. BUT MORE IMPORTANT THEY ARE NOT FLOWERING SINCE 2 MONTH ALMOST. I THINK I SOLVED THE PROBLEM BY SWITCHING OFF SOME GREEN LIGHTS THAT WERE ON DURING THE NIGHT AND THEY WERE PRETTY BRIGHT. MY QUESTION IS: CAN I TAKE THEM OUTDOOR. WILL THAT WORK!? THEY ARE STILL IN VEGETATIVE STAGE NEARLY FLOWERING AND ARE ALMOST TOO BIG TO BE INSIDE. ANY SUGESTION COULD HELP..THANKS ALOT!
Tim Alchimia 2019-06-21
Hi D.T. Thanks for your question. Sounds like a fairly dire situation you’ve been left with there, sorry to hear about it. Honestly, I think the best thing you can do is to get them outdoors as soon as you can. The warm summer weather and the full spectrum of sunlight will get them back into good health relatively quickly, you should prune away any mouldy parts, use a hose to spray off any bugs before treating with natural insecticides and fungicides. Make sure they’re well-fed and in the correct size containers and before long you’re sure to see a huge improvement in their condition. Make sure you thoroughly clean, disinfect the indoor grow space and get rid of any pests before using it again. Let us know how you get on! All the best and happy growing!
Hi Tim.. I live in Australia and currently we are nearly in the dead of winter .. our day temps are around 23-26 degrees Celsius.. while night temps get to 8-14 degrees Celsius.. we are getting roughly between 8-9 hours of sun a day and it will shorten as we near the solstice on the 21st of June.. my question to you is I have just turned lights back to 12 /12 and they are just starting to shoot hairs .. very tiny amounts .. in these conditions would it be possible to put all of them outside to finish off ? I just moved them all into 50 litre pots a week before we changed the lights . I’m using 1x hgl 550 led on one side of tent and just a 600w hps on other side of tent . researching grams per watt as apposed to natural sun / grams is a huge difference. will the yield be roughly the same or will the natural light produce more ? All plants have been fed on organic teas / seed sprouted teas . I thought I would ask before I make a huge error because I’m heading into the unknown.. I appreciate your help / knowledge and time .. regards..jase
Tim Alchimia 2019-06-10
Hi Jase, thanks for your comment and question. Firstly allow me to congratulate you on your “depth of winter” temperatures, they’re pretty much what we’re getting here in Northern Spain at this time of year, I’m jealous! It sounds like the climatic conditions outdoors will be pretty good for finishing them off, the only question is about the lighting, obviously, at this time of year the sun will be at its lowest where you are, with a shallower angle of incidence meaning that the light doesn’t have the same intensity as in summer, which means that calculations regarding yield based on full season harvests are not much use. Add to this the very short days of 8-9 hours, roughly 30% less than the ideal of 12/12 for flowering, and it becomes clear that yields will be lower than under “normal” outdoor circumstances. However, it’s definitely an idea worth pursuing, not only because you’ll save electricity but also because the spectrum from natural sunlight is so much more beneficial to the plants, giving higher and more diverse and cannabinoid terpene content. Personally, I would try and use some kind of supplementary lighting to extend the daylight to 12 hours for the plants once they’re outdoors, I think this may be the only way to increase production. Otherwise, I think you can expect higher quality flowers outdoors but I can’t guarantee you’ll get a larger quantity than if grown indoors under lights. I hope that helps, I’m sorry I can’t give a more definite answer regarding yields. All the best and happy growing!
Hello from New Mexico! I am doing my first grow in over 10 years and I think I may have started off wrong. I started 15 beans on 5-4-19 in a 2×4 tent with 3 circular LEDs that I pick up from a buddy. I started them on a 18/6 light cycle and started to move them outside on 5-18-19. They are outside daily from about 7am-7pm, then I bring them back in to the tent and let them sit under the LEDs until about 12am. I was going to transplant them this week from solo cups, to 1 gals and then leave them outside from there on. Will this cause them to flower? Or mess anything up? I was wanting harvest time to be around sept/Oct I also started some Headband x Tangie the other day, they are 5 days old. When would be a good time to let them be outside full-time, so they can veg strong and finish off strong in flower in Sept or Oct
Tim Alchimia 2019-06-04
Hi Eric, we’re glad to hear you’re starting to grow for yourself again, great news. Thanks for your question, sounds to me like you’ve got everything under control. Transplanting indoor-grown cannabis plants to the outdoors won’t cause them to flower as long as you do it after 1st June (this depends on latitude, the further north you are, the earlier you can put plants out, weather permitting) and before mid-August when the nights become long enough to trigger flowering again. In other words, yes, you’ll be fine transplanting them to the outdoors now, and your new seeds may even catch up with them in size, as long as you transplant them at the right moment and treat them well, they’ll have the best of the summer to get big and strong. You can move all of them outside as early as you want but the seedlings will need regular watering, extra care and protection from strong winds and animals/insects for the first few weeks, but treated right they will grow faster and healthier outdoors under the sunlight than indoors under lamps. Hope that’s helped, good luck for the season ahead and happy growing.
This is a great forum on this subject, thanks. I am hoping you’ll please help me with a question. I am in the EARLY seedling phase, in fact the three-point leaves are just starting to show. I have been using an 18/6 light schedule, and was going to move them outside, but after reading this, I realize I screwed up by giving them too much light, and not having it match the outside light cycle where i live. My question is ‘Can I cut back on the light cycle because the plants are less than a week old without triggering the flowering stage? And then move them outside?” Or did I screw up. I wanted to put them outside in a week or two, and have them enter the flowering stage at the end of June. Harvest time outside where I live (Ontario) is late September, early October. Thanks! Ted
Tim Alchimia 2019-05-20
Hi Ted, thanks for your question. I think you’ll be fine. At this young stage, I’m pretty sure that the seedlings won’t respond to changes in photoperiod in any other way than increasing/decreasing the rate of growth. It’s not until they’re mature adult plants (generally at the point which the new branching changes from symmetrical to asymmetrical) that they will be able to begin flowering. Because of this, I personally like to start my seeds under 18/6 indoors and keep that photoperiod right up until I put them outdoors (usually in mid-May). Clones, however, are a different matter, being already mature plants they can begin to flower immediately and much more care must be taken when we put them outdoors. You say you want them to begin flowering in late June, but I’m pretty sure that the day length in your part of the world will be too long at that time of year to trigger flowering. Unless the plants are receiving less than 14 hours of light every day, they won’t enter the flowering phase. It looks to me like that would be around mid-August in Ontario. If you want the plants to begin flowering early, then really the only option would be to do light-deprivation, which involves covering the plants for 12 hours with some kind of light-proof tarpaulin to trick them into thinking the days are shorter. It can involve a great deal of work and dedication but the grower is rewarded with a very early harvest! I hope that helps. All the best, happy growing!
Hi, I am hoping you can help me. I am brand new to this and have read so much info I am getting confused. I want to grow some plants with higher levels of CBD for my health issues. I just got my seeds in the mail and want to get started. I am located above Santa Barbara about 30 miles in the hills so it’s not the central coast weather and can get quite hot in the summer. I will be growing outside in raised beds. I do have a couple grow lights inside on a shelf I use to start my vegetables with that I could use to start the seeds with if you recommend that. Can you please help me out with what I should do and when. Also any sites you recommend as I’m on overload with so much different info. I would like to try the LST method on the plants to keep them at a reasonable height and produce more. About how much space would I need for each plant? My seeds are Dinamed, CBD Shark Shock, CD-1 and two they gifted me I will grow for my friend Jack Herer and Bruce Banner. I hope I am not too late for this. Thank you for your help. KP
Tim Alchimia 2019-05-07
Hi KP, thanks for your comment and questions. Don’t panic, you’re definitely not too late! If I were you, I’d start my seeds indoors following the method in our post about germination and then put them straight outdoors rather than use artificial lighting. At this time of year, the days are long enough that there’s no risk of them starting to flower, and they’ll develop better under the natural light spectrum of the sun anyway. Just keep them in light shade for the first week or so, to avoid them getting damaged by the strong sunlight or drying out too quickly, although they’ll soon get used to it. The seeds you’ve got are mostly Indica/Sativa hybrids (apart from Jack Herer which is a Sativa-dominant hybrid), so they could get quite large by the time summer ends, so we’d recommend at least 3-5 ft between plants, more if possible, especially if you want to train them to grow in a more horizontal fashion, because what doesn’t grow upwards will grow outwards! Generally, more space means healthier plants, better air flow and bigger yields at harvest time. As for training and pruning the plants to control height, we’ve got a couple of great articles explaining the various techniques that can be used: Pruning cannabis plants and LST – Low Stress Training for cannabis plants. If you’re concerned about excess heat at the height of summer, you could try hanging some shade netting over the plants at the hottest time of day to protect them from the harshest sun rays, but I think as long as they’re kept well-watered they’ll be fine. Some organic mulch on the soil surface will definitely help to retain moisture and keep soil temperatures relatively nice and cool. I hope that’s helped clear things up a little, feel free to ask any more questions. All the best and happy growing!
Thanks Deez – I only have one plant that is in the flowering stage – I have taken it out many times before I started the flowering 12 hour lighting. We haven’t had many days that are warm enough to do this yet in Calgary, and as far as pests – I only do it on a day when I am out there catching the rays – so the plant is right beside me and I can keep the flies away. I think I will give it one more day outside for another energy boost – hope it doesn’t cause popcorn buds..
Tim Alchimia 2019-04-25
Hi Luke, thanks for your question, and thanks to Deez for your answer, you make some very valid points regarding the light intensity of LEDs compared to the sun, and also about the possibility of bringing pests or pathogens into the indoor grow space. That said, I have successfully flowered plants, and got some of the most beautiful flowers I ever grew by using this technique, which I treated more like a light-dep grow, with the plants outdoors for almost the entire 12 hours (except on bad weather days), I would take them outside just after the lights switched on in the tent, and put them back inside just before the lights went out again. For me this meant I had all the advantages of a light-dep, but without committing myself to pulling a tarp at the exact same time twice a day. if one day I felt like a lie-in, or had to be somewhere else, then no worries, the lights in the tent would still keep my plants in flower, whether I was able to move them outside or not, but they were also benefitting from the sun’s energy, meaning I got more, and bigger buds than would otherwise be the case. I didn’t have any problems with pests or diseases, but I was sure to thoroughly clean and disinfect the tent after I’d harvested (indeed, I do the same after every harvest). I’d say try it, if your plants are healthy and vigorous they oughtn’t to fall prey easily to pests, just be sure not to place them right next to any of your garden plants, which could easily be home to all kinds of insects. The sun’s light spectrum and intensity will mean more buds, with more resin and more terpenes, and at the same time, you’ll be saving on electricity and gardening in a more sustainable way. Happy growing, whichever you decide to do, all the best!
Luke, first off it would be A LOT of extra work. You would definitely have to harden your plants first before letting them go a full 6hrs in direct sunlight. Led light compared to the sunlight is very mild. You would also have to take into consideration that your garden indoors is a controlled environment. Taking plants in and out every day will most likely contaminate your plants and indoor garden with unwanted pest. It totally could be done and I believe you would have a larger harvest by incorporation the sunlight then just led light, but you have to weigh out the pros and cons. I myself would go the safe route and stick with the led indoors in a controlled setting.
I have been growing 18 and 6 , then went to 12 and 12 after 10 weeks – I use LED lights indoors. Can I take my plant outside into the sun for 6 hours per day for the natural sunlight, then back inside for the other 6 hours? So 2 hours under LED lights, then 6 hours in the sun, then 4 hours under LED, then 12 hours of darkness. would this give me bigger tastier buds?
Hi. My seed sprouted 10 days ago. I want to transfer outside later on. Im in southern California.. When do you recommend me to transfer outside.
Tim Alchimia 2019-04-04
Hi Angel, glad to hear your seed sprouted fine. Really the only factor stopping you from putting your plant outside is the weather, and as you’re in SoCal I don’t think you’ll be having too many problems with that! I’d wait until the plant is a bit bigger, let it grow a little more under lights indoors, then once it’s got a few sets of leaves you can place it outside. For the first few days, try and situate it in dappled shade, or at least not full sunlight, this allows it to adapt to the string solar rays rather than get shocked and stressed which will hold back its growth. I hope that’s helped. All the best and happy growing!
I started my seeds now and would like to move them outdoors in mid-May. In mid-May I have 15 hours of daylight. If I use a photoperiod of 15/9 was it good?
Tim Alchimia 2019-03-19
Hi Gabriel, thanks for the question. Yes, that’ll work fine, however, unlike the case with cuttings/clones, there’s usually no problem with moving seedlings outdoors into a shorter photoperiod than they are used to, they are unlikely to trigger to flower, and even less so from mid-May onwards. Most plants will need to have less than 14 hours of daylight to trigger flowering, and it’s even fine to move most clones outdoors at that time of year (although clones of some particularly sensitive varieties may need to be put out a little later to avoid triggering early flowering). Personally, I usually start my seedlings in April under 18/6 photoperiod and then put them outdoors in mid-May with no problems at all. I think you’d be fine doing the same thing, although if you want to err on the safe side, your original plan is fine. The plants will just grow a little more with 18 hours of light as opposed to 15 and will be a little larger when you put them outdoors. I hope that’s helped, all the best and happy growing!
Hello I am starting seed and looking to get 10 pounds per plant I’m cracked my seeds yesterday I live in California and want to move the plants out from my indoor spot in mid May and finish to October I am told if I do 18/6 indoors they will flower immediately since it’s like 14 hour days the plants will sense the darkness and be triggered to flower sooner then early. I was told to mimick the outdoor sunlight for my indoor lights so that would be 12 hours 30 mins of light indoor and increase 10 mins every five days until I put the plants outside so they won’t feel a big change and keep vegging! If you have ever tried this please let me know thank you!
Tim Alchimia 2019-02-12
Hi Phil, If you’re planning on putting your plants outdoors from mid-May onwards, then don’t worry, they won’t start to flower until mid-late August, when the day length is 14 hours or less. You can keep your plants indoors until then on a 18/6 light schedule, and as long as they don’t get root-bound, they shouldn’t start to flower. They will get nice and big over the next three months too, you should get a good sized harvest. If you have them at anything less than 14 hours light they’re going to start to flower, so I wouldn’t recommend copying the outdoor light schedule at this time of year. As long as you’re putting the plants outdoors in mid-May, I’d stick to 18/6 to make sure things go without any problems. This is especially true of plants grown from seeds, as opposed to clones, which can sometimes be triggered to flower a lot easier. I hope that’s cleared things up for you, all the best and happy growing!
karlo Is an Alchimia client 2018-08-12
im gunna leave my girls in 4 days of dark hours because i had 1 outdoor crop taken by theifs they are around 3 weeks from ready im gunna hit them with bud candy an big bud for the last week starting tommorrow then flush with normal tap water ill keep you updated
Tim Alchimia 2018-08-14
Hi Karlo, sounds like a good plan. Hope it works out for you and you manage to harvest without problems, all the best and happy growing!
ryan willett 2018-05-26
I’ve got plants in veg that are various sizes. I want to plant six of the big ones outdoors. Right now the lights come on at 6 pm and shut off at noon, to reduce heat I run them at night. My question is can I take them from this light cycle and begin hardening them in the shade for a few days before being placed in direct sunlight? This would invert their day/night cycle, completely opposite of what they are because sun comes up here at 600 or seven A.M. and is down at 7pm or 8 pm. Give or take a little time. Sooooo. my idea is to run my veg lights on 24hr period for a week or so before the hardening in the shade. I think then they will be wanting the dark to come and ready for it at any new time I choose. Is this a good idea? Thanks, ryan.
Tim Alchimia 2018-05-28
Hi Ryan, thanks for your question. Myself, in your position, I wouldn’t put the plants to the 24 hour light schedule beforehand. In my opinion that’d be stressing the plants twice, and anyway, no plant is designed for 24 hours light! I think I’d just change the lights indoors to match what’s going on outdoors asap, then at least when you move the plants outdoors they’ll be used to the photoperiod and you’ll only have to worry about hardening them off. My personal feeling is that after a week of 24 hours they’d be pretty stressed and the additional stress of moving them outdoors might really set them back and not get them off to the best start. Once you do move them outdoors, then yes, it’s best to harden them off in a semi-shady spot, gradually moving them into full sunlight. I recently made the mistake of taking a few plants from under a T5 fluorescent lamp straight out into full sun, and they did not respond well. Two weeks later and they’re just about recovering. Lesson learnt! All the best for the outdoor season, happy growing!
RIVER RAT 2018-05-11
Hi Tim. I REALLY enjoyed all the read and comments made. Nice to see intelligent questions and answers. Very impressed . I’ve put at least 60 hrs of education in over the past 2 months..this was by far the most fun with an A+ education. thanks again !! I’ve taken 10+ years off . a friend had a few extra clones. so dusted off the ballasts. found my MH and HPS and off I went. About 2-3 weeks before taking down 2 White Widows. I forgot how relaxing and fun growing is !! Things have changed a lot over the many years. especially seeds. So I’ve been enamored with educating myself. I really needed some help on moving a clone to the outside. Back in the day I’d toss 3 clones in a 5 gal bucket..throw em on the deck for the summer just for fun. All the while using my grow room inside. I decided to get more serious on understanding the plants which I how hit this thread. I live in Massachusetts. A friend has an extra clone. (maybe 9″). but grow room occupied with WW for a few more weeks. Why not toss it outside on the deck. But understanding length of daylight brought me to search out info. You answered ALL my questions along the way. Exactly what I was looking for. Most importantly. loved learning to transition slowly to outside by utilizing shade for a few day !! Love to learn. Even more important was your recent comment that I was really digging for. you said “was erring on the safe side”. 14.5 hrs of daylight was the cutoff point where bloom/veg was safe. That gives me about a week and then can put the “free clone” outside. A most valuable piece of info !! I’ve also learned along the way my motion light will screw up the bloom cycle. but have couple months to work on that. I can even carry container (will be using smart pots now) around corner of house at night so won’t be affected by light kicking on from woodland creatures on my deck. I really appreciate all the intelligent info you share. Of course EVERYBODY has an opinion about weed. but your info seems to register with confidence to me. GREATLY APPRECIATED .
Tim Alchimia 2018-05-14
Hi River Rat, Big thanks for your comments, I’m really happy that the information has been useful, that’s exactly what we’re here for! All the best for the season ahead, I wish you a bountiful harvest! Oh, and yes, good call on the motion sensor light, I wonder how many outdoor growers haven’t made the connection between plant problems and light pollution? Best wishes and happy growing!
Tim Alchimia 2018-05-14
Hi Tony, thanks for your comment and questions. Unfortunately I can’t get the youtube vids to work, there doesn’t seem to be anything when I open them. Anyhow, to answer your doubts, firstly you can measure pH either with a cheap liquid testing kit or for a more professional solution, you can buy a battery operated digital pH gauge, which will offer a more accurate reading. As for the water, it depends on how far you want to go, if you’ve only got a few plants then you can leave the municipal water to sit in an open container for a day or so which will allow any chlorine to evaporate off. However if you have a lot of plants to water and you want a more effective option you could invest in a Reverse Osmosis water filter system which will clean the water of any impurities. As for setting up the grow, I’d recommend placing the plants where they will receive the maximum solar exposure, although for the first few days after moving them outdoors, I would definitely use some kind of shade to allow them to become accustomed to the strong sunlight and its light spectrum, different to that of indoor grow lamps. But once they’re used to it, they’ll eed as much sunlight as possible to allow them to express the full potential and give a healthy and heavy harvest. If you’re worried about transplanting, I would recommend planting during the afternoon, once the day has cooled down a little. This allows plants to to settle in over night and establish themselves a little in their new home before having to del with the heat of the following day. Some kind of temporary shade shelter can be very useful for those first few days, to save plants from the stress of hot sun while they get established. I hope that’s some help to you, all the best and happy growing!
Tom Khuc 2018-05-03
Hi Tim, Your answer is very informative, help me a lot. Many thanks
Tim Alchimia 2018-05-04
Glad to hear it Tom, many thanks for the feedback!
Tom Khuc 2018-04-29
Hi There, I am living in Binh Thuan- Vietnam with latitude 11 north, http://sunrise.maplogs.com/phan_thiet_binh_thuan_vietnam.939.html The day light and lenght of dark are almost the same, but not perfect 12/12 as somewhere exactly at equator. I have a Wild Thai Land strain, 100% Sativa original from Ko Chang island Thailand and has almost similar latitude I have a few questions: 1. After cloning, can i move my baby plant to outdoor grow for (veg) stage? 2. Can i grow cannabis all year around? Many thanks
Tim Alchimia 2018-05-02
Hi Tom, thanks very much for your questions. Sounds like a very exciting grow project! To answer your doubts, as the plant is a landrace that’s accustomed to the local photoperiod, you should have no problems moving the cloned plants outdoors for a good veg growth period. As far as temperatures and photoperiod go, you ought to be able to grow outdoors throughout the year, depending on when the wet season is, of course. Personally I would try and find out when any local farmers plant their seeds, and learn from their seasonal patterns for best results. All the best and happy growing!
jack smith 2018-03-27
I want to start seedlings indoors and plant outdoors after the frost date, may 15th. what light cycle should I use for the seedlings?
Tim Alchimia 2018-03-29
Hi Jack, thanks for the question. I’d use an 18/6 photoperiod for the seedlings. Hope that helps, happy growing!
I want to move some clones outside how long do I keep them in the shade before putting them in the sun?
Tim Alchimia 2018-03-29
Hi Sally, thanks for your question. At this time of year (in the Northern hemisphere at least) the sun isn’t too harsh, so they shouldn’t need too much time to adapt. I like to have them in a shady spot for a day, then a day or two in dappled shade (under a small tree or a shade net) until I move them to full sun. All the best, happy growing!
45°N oregon – lucky i found Alchimia’s post because everyone here seems to have never done what i thought was common. start indoors because of harsh/frozen outdoor weather. i ONLY want to start indoors (regular, feminized) and continue vegetative outdoors. i have questions i don’t see asked in Alchimia’s research article. i have no space, have 3 light banks, trays set up in LIVING ROOM. 1. what effect will 60 watt household lights have on the plants light cycle? 2. what effect vehicle head lights passing by windows have? (because the moon is extremely bright but doesn’t effect plants?) 3. household light NOT direct but reflective off walls illuminating the plants? 4. i cannot screw fasteners into the ceiling/walls. can some kind of black cloth strung out protect the plants from light? (but note the cloth could trap in moisture leading to mold/mildew.) 5. i have 3 light banks, grow trays (2’x4′), next to each other, i love to make 1 tray and autoflower 24 on but i’m sure i couldn’t block out all the light, i could only drape up some semi black cloth shield. do you think this would work? 6a. the grow shops each say a diff procedure. after reading Alchimia’s report, i would choose making the INDOOR LIGHT TIME = to sun light time then we won’t have any problems? only 2% of the reports i’ve read even mention this so i wonder why? would the plants not grow well or high indoors with the natural sun light cycle = to T5 fluorescent lights i have? 6b. what height would you estimate plants getting to following natural light cycle? the trays are next to 8’x5′ windows facing south/sun plus i have one 2’x4′ 8 bank T5 over each tray. 6. my area had a freeze end of may 2017. not safe to move outdoors until june. cannot flower inside, the smell is too strong. thank you Alchimia for a great article!
Tim Alchimia 2018-03-13
Hi Doug, we’re happy you found our article useful. I’ll try and answer your questions: I doubt that any additional light will be a problem during vegetative growth. Remember that many growers veg with 24 hours light. At the worst irregular timed additional illumination may provoke mild light stress, leading some plants to show any intersex characteristics they may have, this saving you the trouble of weeding out hermies at a later date, or missing them completely and ending up with a seeded crop. I don’t see any need to use a dark cloth or anything else to protect the plants from light. For the last five or six I’ve started off all my seeds in a living room as your suggesting doing and i’ve never had any problems. Having said that, I wouldn’t do autos on 24 hours light cycle, at most I’d use 20 hours light, personally I believe plants benefit from some darkness each day. as far as the height of the plants, well that depends on many factors: the genetics, fertilisation, plant health, illumination. It’s obvious that a sativa-dominant F1 hybrid will grow taller quickly as opposed to an inbred line Indica plant. If you can’t move the plants outside till June, I wouldn’t germinate too early, keeping the plants indoors in less than perfect conditions for too long will affect their health, and they may take longer to recover outdoors than younger, more vigorous plants. Also, if you’re moving the plants outdoors in June, you shouldn’t have any problems with them going into flower early, especially if growing from seeds as opposed to clones. I hope that’s cleared things up for you, all the best and happy growing!
Hi there, we are trying to decide when to set out clones. We are in northern CA, USA. At the beginning of May, the photoperiod is 14 hours of light. Should we slowly change the light cycle in our veg greenhouse (has supplemental lighting) to 14 hours, and then set them out May 1? To clarify, May 1 is our preferred date for planting, for a variety of reasons I won’t get into here. I have heard from other growers that plants will begin to flower, however, when the light cycle is less than 15 hours of light. Thoughts?
Tim Alchimia 2018-02-08
Hi Ryan, thanks for your question. My thoughts. from my experience here at 43ºN, May 1st is a bit early for planting out, in my garden I’d wait until the middle of May, having found that 14.5 hours daylight is more or less the cutoff point. Maybe I’m just erring on the safe side though. Is there any way you can rig up some supplemental lighting outdoors for a couple of weeks? It wouldn’t need to be much, from what I’ve heard, a single 90w lightbulb for every 100 square feet will be enough to keep them in veg if it’s switched on for just an hour in the night to break the dark cycle. Of course, other factors can influence whether or not plants start flowering: genetics can be a major factor, and fast-flowering strains are more likely to start blooming early, but plants are also more likely to be triggered into flower if they have become rootbound leading up to transplant. I’d look into some form of outdoor supplemental lighting of you absolutely have to plant out on May 1st, just to be on the safe side, it’d be a shame if they started flowering and didn’t veg out the way you want them to. All the best, happy growing!
Which one of gender marijuana we can smoke? Male or female
Dani Alchimia 2017-11-30
Hi Ray, You’ll normally smoke females only. Males produce very few cannabinoids and terpenes and taste like hemp. Hermaphodite plants are smokeable, but they’re normally seeded and it is hard to get good quality. Sinsemilla females are what you want to smoke! Best!
I’m growing outdoor in northern canada, it’s getting cold and the plants are flowering but not even close to finished. Temps are going to stay 15 deg c or less in the day from now on. Can I dig hem up and transplant indoor? Will any of the plant work for butter if nothing else?suggestions please as I’ve been on these since April and we are into Oct . don’t want to waste.. Help
Dani Alchimia 2017-10-04
Hi Adrian, You can do so, but your plants will surely be stressed during the process, and they’ll need some extra time to adapt to the indoor environment. Can’t you build a small greenhouse to cover them? That’d be great! Otherwise, your plants will not produce much bud but lots of resin, which of course can be used to make concentrates or edibles. For next year’s crop, I’d stronly recommend to build a greenhouse and use early flowering strains. You can also put some heaters in your greenhouse if necessary. Best!
Simon Fester 2017-09-01
Hi great info. I’m in Australia and have indoor tent that’s only two or three weeks of harvest. Problem is I had a fallout wuth a mate and am worried about getting busted. I have 9 plants 600w 12.12 cycle. Here the days are getting longer but can I put them out to finish as they ar so close?
Tim Alchimia 2017-09-01
Hi Simon, Glad you’re finding our blog useful and thanks for you question. Sorry to hear about your falling out with a mate. these situations can be complicated and it’s why you’ll find a lot of experienced growers won’t tell anyone about their grow, not even their best friend! Security first! Anyway, I think you’ll be fine putting them outside, I’ve done the same thing here in the Northern Hemisphere and the rule of thumb I go by is that as long as they’re finished by 15th May, they shouldn’t start re-vegging. So for you down under that date will be roughly 11th November, so you’ve got plenty of time! Be sure to watch out for any strange behaviour like intersex/male flowers appearing, some plants react badly to the photoperiod getting slightly longer each day, get stressed and throw out a few bananas. I’ve found it’s actually a great way to stress-test genetics to see if they’re worth holding on to and working with for the future. Good luck and happy growing!
You said when the plants regenerate and then flower again the product is of lower quality. What about clones from a flowered plant? Do they produce lower quality than clones from plants always grown with continuous light since germination?
Dani Alchimia 2017-08-14
Hi Phineas, Taking clones from plants in flowering is hard, although it can be done. Once your clones have rooted and start growing (once they’ve switched from bloom to growth), they should produce the same product than the mother plant. Hope it helped!
I received some indoor plants from a friend. I left them in the shade for 5 days and I now want to get them into the ground. The plants are about 3 feet tall and were potted in a black soft material( it is not a hard plastic). Do I need to cut this mesh off b4 transplanting or do I keep them in the original housing. Thanks
Dani Alchimia 2017-06-30
Hi shel, I guess you have your plants in some sort of fabric pot. Simply remove the plant from the fabric pot and transplant it into the ground, just as you’d do if your plant was in a plastic pot. Of course, if you find it too messy you can always cut off the fabric and transplant your plant. Best!
Thank you he will be relieved that his plants will bud out and not go to waste !
Thank you for responding to all the mail to help everybody out ! My friend bought some plants at a dispensary and planted them outside to soon and started budding out , then they went back to growing . My question is will they start budding out again in August or not bud out at all ? He lives in live in nor cal ! The plants have changed leaf size to big and fat and some have curls on the ends but are still growing ?
Dani Alchimia 2017-06-26
Hi Newby, Re-vegging plants often have curled leaves, do not worry. Just let her do her thing and she’ll flower again in August. Basically, and when taking indoor plants outside, you must think about your outdoor garden as an indoor grow room with the following photoperiod: From June to August: 18/6. Any plant you take outside during these months will grow From August to June: 12/12. Any plant you take outside during these months will flower This works for the northern hemisphere. Hope it helped!
Hello, I just took clones and I want them to grow outdoor, whats the best time to move them if I just want them to flower. Its mid june I live in co. I do not want to use my halide light because of electricity cost.
Dani Alchimia 2017-06-19
Hi Freddy, If you move them outside now, they’ll grow and start flowering just as any other outdoor plant. The more you wait to move them out, the less they’ll grow before bloom. No need to use artificial lighting now (you’d have needed it if you’d have moved your plants outside before mid May/June). Hope it helped!
I have a growing question that is need of your expertise. I’m vegging under 24/7 light and I want to get the plants closer to what the natural light cycle is outside 14/10 or so. How big of a jump can I make without risking them flowering early on me. Can I drop to 18/6 for 2 wks and then stop with the supplemental light altogether, or do i have to do it gradually? Just curious what the best way to get inside plants on 24 hours of light ready to go outside for full season. Its is may 27th 2017 and I love in California. I know you would know the answer to this with depth so I hope you don’t mind me quizzing you on it 😉
Dani Alchimia 2017-05-29
Hi Benjamin, I’ve had plants under 24/0 photoperiod and put them outside without problems, always from June onwards. Still, and as you say, it’d be better if you drop it to 18/6 for a few days and then take them outside. In this way, those plants specially sensitive to light/darkness hours will have it easier to adapt to the new environment. Hope it helped!
My clones have been on an an 18/6 schedule since the beginning of April. Do I need to reduce them gradually to say 14/10, 12/12, etc. before planting them outdoors, or can they go directly under shade cloth away from the lights for a couple of days before putting them in the ground without the light reduction. I am E., slightly N. of San Francisco. Alessandra
Dani Alchimia 2017-05-08
Hi Sandra, I assume you want your clones to grow outdoors until they start the bloom phase naturally in summer. If that’s the case, you should NOT reduce the photoperiod, but put them on a shady spot (outdoors) for a couple of days so they gradually adapt to sunlight. After these 2-3 days you can plant them in the ground and they’ll start growing until they detect a decrease in daylight hours, when they’ll start the bloom phase. Best of luck! 😉
Thank you Tim.
Thanks tim! I have many options and im not sure which will be the best for producing the most buds. I would have to make shift a green house which is possible or I can acclimate them to the sunlight and plant outdoor fully. Which do you suggest would be the best for my plants, they have been in veg too long over 5 months, but if possible to keep them in veg and grow even bigger outdoor then flower, maybe that would work? Thanks for a speedy response you guys are helping me already.
Hi John, maybe the easiest thing to do would be to move them outside to a semi-shaded spot for a couple of days to acclimate them to the sunlight, then you can put them in their final spot in full sun so they can get even bigger over the growing season and begin to flower in mid-august. I think at this stage of the year (Mid May) the plants will be okay outdoor and not start to flower, but any additional hours of lighting that you can give them over the next week or two will ensure they don’t start to flower early and mess up your plans. Good luck!
My plants have been in veg for 5 months and they are outgrowing. They are lemon skunk. I have various options for planting outdoor. Maybe a green house with a dim light?
Hello John and thank you for your questions, If you have the option of moving your plants to a greenhouse with additional lighting, I’d do that. Just give them additional lighting until the beginning of June and from that point the natural photoperiod (hours of daylight) will mean they will grow normally throughout the season and start to flower as the hours of daylight reduce in late summer. If you’re going to grow out the male plants, you’ll need to move them away from the females before they start to flower, unless you want all your buds seeded. If you want to make some seeds, keep the males in a location as far away from the females as possible, collect pollen from the males and apply it to selected branches of your females for a controlled pollination. Remember that seeds will need between 4-6 weeks to fully mature, so be sure to time the pollination to allow for this. You also mention that you have a few fragile and unhealthy plants, this could well be stress due to the 24 hour light schedule you’re using. Plants don’t need, or want 24 hours of light, it’s completely unnatural. In future try using 18/6 or 19/5 schedules, that way the plant gets maximum growth but also gets much-needed darkness to enable it to break down the carbohydrates/starches produced by photosynthesis to fuel their metabolism and promote healthy growth. I hope that’s helped, good luck with your grow!
So glad I found this site. First time grower and im running into a pickle. I have plants growing indoor 24hr light and they are ready to flower, but I want to move them outside. Some of the plants are fragil and possibly unhealthy. I live in colorado. Some of the plants are male and im thinking of growing them too. Advice? Peace and love
Hi Dani, So glad I found this site. I am a first time grower and am having issues of course. The strain is Amnesia Hashplant. Here are strain specifics: Genetics: [(Amnesia Haze (Hy Pro cut)/Danish Gold) X (Amnesia (Hy Pro)/Danish Gold x Blue Satellite (Breeder Steve)] Not recommended for indoors. Indica/Sativa: 25/75 very sativa Flowering period: ~ 50 days. Outdoor Harvest: 1st to 2nd week of September ( ~ 46 N. lat, northern hemisphere) I germinated in straight coco coir. All popped and started off great. They are seven days old now. In that time, they stretched about 2 – 2 1/2″ and two have collapsed. I am repotting them today and burying the stems deeper to hopefully prevent any more of them collapsing. I started these indoors to transplant outdoors as soon as possible. I have no indoor lights whatsoever. I have them in solo cups on a window sill that has direct sunlight from around for about 6 hours a day. I’m hoping to use the sun and not any artificial light if possible. We are having 13 hours days right now. I could put them outside, but temps are in the mid 80’s and a bit windy and they are still very fragile. My question is, I’m worried they are stretching because of the need for more sun. I feel they are too fragile to move outside yet. Should I get some CFLs and put them on an 18/6 cycle, or put them outside? I’m very confused. Any help would be truly appreciated. Thanks.
Hi Jason, thanks for trusting us with your question. The temperature sounds pretty good for your latitude and time of year, and a bit of wind won’t do seedlings any harm as long as you can ensure that they don’t dry out. In any case, Spring has definitely sprung and conditions will quickly improve. You’ve chosen some very hardy and resistant outdoor genetics there, and they ought to do really well outdoors in almost any conditions, I grew some a couple of years back, they’re originally bred outdoors in Denmark and can take almost anything you can throw at them! If your plants have germinated under natural light then I wouldn’t change them to 18/6 light schedule under artificial lights, as it may stress them. As you’ve deduced, they are probably stretching due to lack of light, so personally I would move them outdoors but if you’re really not sure about the conditions, maybe invest in one of those cheap plastic mini-greenhouses sold for use on balconies or patios, that should give your plants the protection they may need over the next few weeks until you feel conditions are good enough that they can be outdoors without any shelter, and it’s also probably cheaper than getting CFLs, and certainly uses less electricity! I hope that helps, good growing!
Hello Dani, Great Article. I’ve been growing indoors for two years with great success. Now that Maine has legalized marijuana I want to try outdoor this summer. In Maine June 20th is about 15/9. Days start getting shorter. We get our first frost around late September. I could never go from seed to bud outside in our summer because our last frost is around the first week of June. If I start them inside May 1st, 3 weeks as a seedling and 4 weeks of vegging, then bring the outside around June 20th, will this work? Thanks
Dani Alchimia 2017-02-01
Hi Larry, Yes, it should work. With a 15/9 photoperiod your plants will start flowering as soon as they adapt to the outdoor environment, a few days after you put them outside. They should be ready before the first frost comes unless you’re using strains with very long bloom period. All the best!
I planted my seedlings on january 5th and they are on a 12/12 cycle, 7am to 7pm. Can i keep them on the 12/12 cycle until april 1st and put them outside without flowering? Thank you for your time.
Dani Alchimia 2017-01-23
Hi BDOwen, You’re using a photoperiod for flowering plants, so your seeds will start flowering as soon as they reach sexual maturity. You should use a 18/6 photoperiod in order to keep them growing (18 hours of light, 6 hours of darkness). If you don’t want your plants to flower outside, you should wait until late May to remove them from your indoor garden, otherwise they’d start flowering since the natural photoperiod is still too short. Put them outside on late May / early June and they’ll grow and bloom like any other outdoor plant. Check this post about off-season crops for further information. Hope it helped!
Hi Dani, I live here in Costa Rica, by the beach so the weather is great. We have 12/12 light cycle all year around here. Since the weather is so good, do you think I could veg my plants by leaving them outside to receive 12hours of light and as soon as that’s done each day I bring them Indoor under CFL lights for another remaining 6 hours, so it completes 18hrs of light each day (veg cycle), and when I want to flower just put them outside for 2 months without bringing them in? Pura Vida
Dani Alchimia 2016-11-08
Hi Carlos, That’s perfect mate, it will work without a doubt!! All the best, pura vida! 😉
Hi Dani, I live in Chile and i have a biddy early growing indoors under 18/6, it’s a 3 week seedling (just grew up its 5th set of leaves) and I want to move it outdoors now that the climate is better here. The doubt I have is that right now we have 13 hrs 30 min of light during the day and will increase from now on until february when it will start to decrease again. What can I do to make the transition easier and less stressfull for my plant? Should I change my timer from 18/6 to 13,5/10,5 now? Do it gradually? Hope you can help me thank you!!
Dani Alchimia 2016-10-31
Hi Sergio, If you take your plants outside now they’ll start flowering. Being a Biddy Early you’ll probably be harvesting it by mid January. There’s no need to switch the photoperiod, just take your plants out and put them on a shady place for a couple of days. After that you can put them under direct sunlight. The point is: you want to put the plants outside as soon as possible, otherwise they could start re-vegging during bloom. This post about off-season crops could be helpful for you, just keep in mind that it was written for the northern hemisphere.
Hi Dani, I got some great advice from you before, hopefully you can help me again! I have some Durban Poison outside flowering and nearly ready to harvest. They still need another week or two but the night temperatures are getting low with some as low as 5 degrees, but mostly about 7. Day temperatures are about 12 to 15 degrees. Would it be best to harvest now or hold off for another while until they are finished flowering?
Dani Alchimia 2016-10-03
Hi Peter, We have several options here. The ideal would be using a small greenhouse and some type of heater for greenhouses. You can also try to put your plants inside every night (if they’re planted in pots), but it is hard and you can have issues with molds if the interior space is not properly ventilated. However, and keeping in mind that you’ll be harvesting in about a week, I don’t think you’ll have any problem if you leave them outside. Either way, and if you have a good space for growing, I’d really think about building a greenhouse, it is something that will help you every year. All the best!
Hi, I have a problem. My outdoors ak47 are 6 feet tall now, last weekend of August. No buds in sight. I live in a northern climate and now our frost is getting close. Goi g down to 10 degrees at night. I do have a green house 15 min drive from the plants. How do I safely move them. I really don’t want to kill them.
Dani Alchimia 2016-09-12
Hi Jana, Normally, your plant should have started to develop buds a few weeks ago. Do you have some type of light source near your plants at night? Plants need uninterrupted night periods to start flowering. Are your plants in pots or planted directly in the ground? If they’re in the ground, I guess the only way is digging a hole around the main stem (the larger the diameter, the better) and transplanting the plants into containers (just as you’d do with a small tree). Then you can move your plants with a vehicle to the greenhouse. Hope it helped!
Need to move plants just starting to flower landlord wants them gone.will they survive suggestions ?
Dani Alchimia 2016-08-30
Hi Carl, We’d need some more info on your plants. are they planted outside? On pots, or directly in the ground? If there is a way to move them to another spot, there won’t be any problem. If they’re planted outside in the ground, you can try to make a big hole with a shovel and put the root ball in a large container. Some roots will die, but if the hole is big enough (50-70cm diameter) I think your plants will survive. Just transplant them into larger pots and move them to a safe spot. Hope it helped!
Need your help for sativa grow outdoor for gud buds.
Dani Alchimia 2016-08-17
Hi Crystal, I’d need some information about your growing conditions. Still, keep in mind that Sativas take longer to ripe than Indicas, so they need more care especially during the bloom stage. You probably won’t have to worry about fungi since Sativas are usually resistant to fungal infections, although take care of temperatures especially at night. Here you have an article on the main characteristics of Sativa strains. Hope it helped! 😉
Mike Bryant 2016-07-28
What the FUCKKKKK. Great job
Richie Rich 2016-07-23
Flower during summer it gets really hot.
Dani Alchimia 2016-07-25
Hi Richie, Flowering indoors during summer is really difficult unless you have a good a/c. This is what I’ve made several times: I took my mother plants out on early June so they keep on vegging. On late July I take clones and, depending on what I want, I put the mother plants inside again or I root the clones inside and leave them in my veg room (which is what I usually do). I don’t want huge plants, so after taking clones I normally prune and train my mother plants and leave them outside, always trying to keep them below 5 feet tall. About your question: your clone is now growing outside, if you leave them in total darkness for 24 hours you’ll send them a signal to start bloom. BUT, if you take them out again now, with the current photoperiod, you’ll send them another signal to grow again. You should a)Leave them outside until they start bloom. b)Put them indoors and take them outside when the natural bloom photoperiod starts. c)Use light deprivation techniques so that your clones start flowering outdoors asap. This last option means covering your clones (at dawn or dusk) for 2-3 hours, enough to add a few dark hours to the natural photoperiod. As soon as your plants detect longer nights, they’ll start to bloom. Logically, as the natural bloom photoperiod comes you can stop covering your plants and they’ll keep on flowering until harvest. Hope it helped!
Richie Rich 2016-07-23
Hi it’s me again. I started in March and transitioned outside smooth and safe with minor light burn. I have huge TREES and I had made clones too that are outside. It’s late July and I wanted to know if I put my vegging clone inside total darkness for 24 hours and force it to start to flower can I bring it back outside to continue flowering under our All Mighty SUN. I wanna flower clone before the other cause I’ve got quite a few huge TREES in 15 gallons smart pots. Thanks again next time will veg in autumn and flower in winter if I decide to go inside because flowering during winter it gets pretty hot. a/c was a must
Hi, I’ve got several different strains that I started in February and March in a greenhouse and put outside in April and May when they outgrew thier pots. All of the plants were mature and I used light interruption for about 20 minutes a night until June 1st, then I left them to the natural light cycle. Everything stayed vegging, but In the first week of July about half started flowering. So this was a month after I stopped shining lights on them in the night. It’s been about 2 weeks and they’re budding some are half veg half flowering, but most are full flowering. I guess the light would be low enough now that they’ll all flip to full flower and finish in September? Do you think this was just a very early strain? Plants here usually start in August. What are your thoughts? Thanks!
Dani Alchimia 2016-07-19
Hi Frank, If your plants stayed vegging during June, then they probably have started flowering as soon as they’ve detected shorter nights. No problem at all! Luckily, you’ll be harvesting by September and won’t have to worry about autumn rains! 😉 Since you have a greenhouse, I recommend you this post about off season outdoor crops, it will help you to perform up to 3 outdoor harvests per year!! All the best!
I’m surprised to hear you say that it would reveg , I’m new to the game but I’ve got a few others outside that have sexed, not flowering the way the one under the 12/12 is. but they have sexed. I live in ohio btw. I’ll keep them under the lights inside untill Aug, One thing I thought about and I wanted to get your opinion. What If I kept it in the 5 gal bucket, and Brought it ouside at 8am. then put it back inside the shed at 8 pm, keeping it on the 12 hour cycle. would that keep it from reveging? Thanks man.
Dani Alchimia 2016-07-12
Hi Jason, Well, it obviously depends on strains, but I wouldn’t take this risk and I’d wait for a couple of weeks. One the other hand, of course you can do as you say, this technique is called light deprivation and is widely used in large crops with automated greenhouses. I’ve used it to start the bloom of plants before they should start it, so I can harvest them much earlier than the rest. Works great! All the best!
I’ve Got a plant inside. veged it for like 6 weeks. I’ve had it under the 12 / 12 light cycle for about 20 days now. It’s flowering nicely. It’s July 8th, could I put it ouside now for it to finish off it’s flowering cycle or is it to early? Also, since it’s a few weeks into flowering, do you think it would finish earlier
Dani Alchimia 2016-07-11
Hi Jason, If you take your plant outside now it will start re-vegging. You should wait until early August to make sure that the natural photoperiod will induce your plant to continue flowering. When you take your plants outside, they normally need a few days to adapt to the new environment, but yes, if you take a plant out that is half into bloom (for example, into the 4th week of a 9 week strain) it’ll need about 5-6 weeks to ripe. If you have a nice climate, you can try off-season crops during spring and autumn to supplement your main summer harvest. Hope it helped!
Hello there, I’ve got a greenhouse full of boo berry with a few (3) hash plants and deathstar. I put them outside the middle of may. Coming from 18/6 indoors. All of the boo Berry’s are flowering but the hashplants and dstar is not. They all went out at the same time. Should I be switching the nutes on the boos to flower at this point? Or am I at a loss?
Dani Alchimia 2016-06-27
Hi Curtis, Some strains are more sensitive to others to photoperiod changes, especially in regard with night length. To make sure that your plants won’t start flowering, put them outside by June. If they started flowering on mid May, they must be almost done, aren’t they? If they’re about to be harvested, I’d try to end their bloom by using the light deprivation technique (put them 2-3 of hours on the dark every day at sunset/sunrise, making their nights longer until they’re done). If they still need some weeks and, at some point, stop flowering and start re-vegging, you can remove the “buds” and leave the plant growing throughout summer. All the best!
Hi Dani, Great article l, thanks. I’m in the UK and have a few plants ready to go outside but have mistakenly had them on 24hrs of CFL light. I want them to keep vegging until they naturally flower. Should I gradually reduce the amount of light they are getting until its the same as outside before I plant them out? Or will they be ok to go out now? Thanks.
Dani Alchimia 2016-06-23
Hi Peter, With the current natural photoperiod, all plants that you take outside will grow untill late July-August, when they’ll start flowering. If you plant them out now, they’ll have less hours of light than they had indoors, but anyway the nights are still too short for plants to bloom, so they’ll keep on vegging. Try to put your plants on a shady area for a couple of days before planting them under the sun. Best of luck! 😉
I have 6 beautiful plants all have 3/4 inch buds on them it’s two weeks into June is it to late to put them outside. Live in NY
Dani Alchimia 2016-06-10
Hi CUrtis, If you take your plants outside now, they’ll stop flowering and start re-vegging. What you can do now is putting clones outside so they grow until August, when they’ll start to bloom. Hope it helped!
I’m growing god bud again this year trying my best to produce my own yearly supply. I wish I had read this thread early, and now feel like I may need to start one more batch of plants from seed to replace my current plants. I was growing indoors using 18/6 light/dark cycle, and as the weather improved and frost was no longer a danger I brought my plants into my hothouse. Some of my plants had started to flower but I thought this was because they were root bound. It now seems obvious this was just triggered by the change in day night periods. I was already on a second group of younger plants they seemed to be unfazed and growing really well. Now of course I have they very beginnings of flowers on my best plants outdoors. Firstly I want to know if I should pull those plants now and save the good soil for another younger crop? I can get new seeds in now. I’m just wondering if it’s possible that my God bud strain has become auto flowering and I just didn’t know better in the past? I have never had an amazing year with it but I have also always tried to get my plants out in May. The bud I do get is very good quality so I haven’t given up it. Last year I had a late start only got clones growing in July and grew start to finish in 3 gallon pots. The plants topped out at 3′ high some of them got really bad stretch because my hothouse is not temperature controlled properly(I also didn’t know above 36C was too much even for pot). I still got way over 7g-14g a plant which is all you can expect from an auto-flower right?
Dani Alchimia 2016-06-07
Hi Mobios, Although your plants started flowering, the natural photoperiod in June will cause them to re-veg and grow again. Here you have a post about off season outdoor crops. Basically, if you use indoor plants (18/6) you have to put them outside in late February (so they can finish the flowering stage before June) or late May/early June (they’ll grow until August, just like any other outdoor plant). If your plants have nice buds, the best thing you can do is put new seeds and harvest your “old” plants as soon as they start re-vegging. Hope it helped!
Jason cubio 2016-05-18
Hey I need some advise assp! I have 7 clones that were extra that I’ve had sitting under a T5 light for about 2-21/2 months The light is on 24/7. I originally thought about just using them for moms. They are about 3 1/2 to 4 ft tall right now but not bushy. I’m thinking about putting them in 30gal geopots and putting them outside? If I do what do I need to do so they will hit good? Or is it not worth putting them outside? Thanks in advance! P.s it’s may 18th today so daylight starts at about 5am and dark isn’t until about 8:30-9pm
Dani Alchimia 2016-05-19
Hi Jason, Many people grow mother plants during the year and they take them outside in May-June, no problem at all. Although some strains are very resistant, I’d transplent them into your geopots and then put them a couple of days in a shady, humid area so they acclimatize. After 2-3 days you can put them directly under the sunlight. Try to use some kind of rooting stimulant after the transplant so your plants start growing asap. I’d also prune the tops of the plants so they develop more bushy. Hope it helped!
I want to put some plants outdoors June 1st. Daylight is 15hrs 40mins darkness is 8hrs 20mins on June 1st. Should I have my timer set to match this time or do I need to match it to the outdoors during the entire period it’s indoors from seedling by keep adding time to the timer as daylight outside increases. Right now outdoors it’s about 13.5 hours daylight and 10.5 hrs darkness. Is this enough hours of light ? Or should I just match the timer to June 1st at 15hrs 40mins light and 8hrs 20mins dark?
Dani Alchimia 2016-04-04
Hi Logan, You can keep a 18/6 photoperiod indoors and move your plants outdoors in June without problem, they’ll continue growing and start flowering like any other outdoor plant. No need to match timers, your plants will be ok. Remember to put them on a shady spot during the first 2 days after moving them outside so they can adapt to sunlight. All the best!
In a modified indoor greenhouse set up in house ( think greenhouse with windows which have c. 1 foot wide supports/sheetrock/wood, paned French doors, two overhead skylights facing, 18 degrees South facing and West-facing, what woud be an appropriate indoor overhead lighting (florescents) schedule to apply for the month of April, sunlight coming from east, south and west somewhat from overhead skylights too. I do have a sunrise/sunset schedule for April, but don’t know how I can relate this to appropriate lighting for April, preparatory to setting them outside in May? Suggestions? Thanks!
Dani Alchimia 2016-03-15
Hi Sylvia, I understand that you want to grow these plants in this greenhouse now and take them outside in May. With the natural photoperiod, plant would now bloom, so what you need to do is using some lighting system (Fluorescents, CFLs, LEDs. even MH or HPS) to force your plants to grow until May. You can do it by switching on the lamps a couple of hours before the sunrise and a couple of hours after the sunset, so your plants have longer days. Another option would be using the lamps in the middle of the night to “break” the uninterrupted night period of plants so that they don’t bloom but continue growing (they’ll grow less than with the first method though). Hope it helped! 😉
Hey Dani. Thanks for your reply. I recently started growing weed again. It’s been about fifteen years! I always started in February with “bag seed,” and never had a problem with pre-flowering. Maybe just a couple of pistols here and there with indica dominant strains? I did some research yesterday, and found out that cannabis can flower with just slightly less than twelve hours of darkness. Over the the years growers have selectively bred plants to flower earlier and faster. Thus, many strains purchased through the internet have become more sensitive to light and darkness. In the future, I’ll start germinating in the first week of April!
Dani Alchimia 2016-03-10
hi David, Glad to read that you’re growing again! Nothing like a good homemade bud!! The photoperiod subject is truly interesting, if you look make some research you soon realize that the typical 12/12 photoperiod is just a standard, a way to know for sure that your plants will bloom. Some plants will flower with 13h of darkness, others will flower better with shorter nights (10-11 hours). I see you’re a curious guy, google “critical night length” for more info. 😉 All the best!
I have two plants that popped in the first week of February in Southern California. It’s the first week of March and they are approximately one foot in height. They have been growing outside all this time, and are now showing signs of flowering. They are both hybrid plants. My question is, will they continue to flower or revert to a vegetative state?
Dani Alchimia 2016-03-08
Hi David, What happened here is a bit strange, but happens sometimes. Probably, you started your seeds too soon; they have grown during February and, due to the natural photoperiod, have started flowering in March. I don’t think they’ll finish this bloom, I think they’ll start growing again in a few weeks. To avoid this, try to sow your seeds a bit later, by March. Hope it helped!
Hi mate, This was a handy article, thanks for that! I live in Australia where the longest day is 13hrs 40mins so i was wondering what advice you would give someone who wanted to start a few plants indoors and move them outdoors to veg as long of the spring and summer as possible? Should i have them on approx 13/11 until outside matches up with this light cycle, or should i maybe try 16/8 and drop the light cycle until it matches up with outside? I wonder if this will induce a sort of vegetative rejuvenation. thanks a lot for your help.
Dani Alchimia 2016-03-04
Hi David, From my experience, when I have days of 13hrs and 40min is in late April. This makes your question even more difficult, since with this photoperiod some strains bloom while others (that were flowering outside since late February) start re-vegging. Here you have a post in which I explain how I grow in spring, taking mother plants outside on late february and harvesting on May (N.Hemisphere). Here’s what I would do: I would try to plant from seed and directly outside, a regular outdoor crop (just to make sure that I’ll harvest some plants). I’d also germinate some Indica seeds indoors (perhaps with the 16/8 photoperiod), and take them outside in late winter (if I wanted them to bloom) or in late spring (if I wanted them to grow as much as they could before flowering). Sativas will probably start flowering as soon as you take them outside. Another option: grow your plants indoors as big as you want and take them outside when you know they’ll have an explosive bloom. (This is what most growers from the Canary Islands do, since they have pretty much the same problem than yours). I’d love to be more precise, but I’m affraid you’ll have to do some trial and error process until you find a strain which grows (and not blooms) with your natural photoperiod. Notice that plants do not start flowering because they have few light hours, but because they have prolongued night periods. With a 13/11 photoperiod, your pants would flower, since the night period is too long. Hope it helped! 😉
Georgia peach 2016-03-01
So when is the earliest that I plant outdoors from seed in ATL with out fear of pre mature flowering early?
Dani Alchimia 2016-03-03
Hi Georgia peach, If you plant from seed, you can start by March without problems. You know that time when you can feel that Spring is coming? Splendid sunny days, milder temps at night. that is a perfect moment to sow your seeds! 😉 All the best!
Usually, when moving plants outdoors, it is better to place the plants.when moving plants indoors from the outside, we have several things to keep in mind.First of all,you must notice that if you take your plants outside now, they’ll stop flowering and start growing again.
Dani Alchimia 2016-02-03
Hi claireolson, If you take your plants outside now, in February, they will automatically start flowering, and that will happen until mid May (approximately). Unless they have a long flowering period, any strain taken outside in February-early March will end its flowering by May, when we can take new plants outside and start again for the summer crop. (All this in the northern hemisphere). Here you have a post on off-season cannabis growing. All the best!
Dani your awesome..I live in new england just moved..I’m starting some plants indoors for the outdoor grow season is there any way I can harvest in sept instead of mid october. When exactly should I put them outdoors so I could harvest earlier or can this even be done
Dani Alchimia 2016-01-25
Hi Chris, You have several options: -Spring crops: you can start plants indoors in December and put them outside (in a greenhouse preferably) by late February/Early March, so that they’ll start flowering as soon as you take them out. Plants will be ready to harvest by late March. If you try off-season crops, always use fast strains (mostly Indica hybrids) and, whenever possible varieties with high resistance to cold temperatures. You need fast strains because they have to be ready by late March, otherwhise they’ll start re-vegging. You can use either plants coming from a 18/6 photoperiod or autoflowering strains. -Summer crops: You can use autoflowering strains, which will be ready in around 70-80 days from seedling. If you plant on June your crop will be ready by September. Another option would be using early flowering strains, many of them are also ready by September. A third option, much harder, is flower forcing: you can plant seeds in March and start decreasing their photoperiod by June, so they’ll start flowering much earlier than with the natural photoperiod. This method is hard and requires plenty of dedication unless you have an automated system, since you’ll have to cover your plants for several hours per day and then uncover them everyday, so they have less daily sunlight hours. All the best! 😉
hey i got a blueberry skunk outdoors really naturally, im in week 2-3 but the climate in australia is a bit weird and i read somewhere that the plants must have some specific temperatures, so, when its raining i put the plant in my room under my desks light until the rain/wind calms down, is that right what im doing? so far my little friend is really healthy about 7-8 cm height/weidth.. im not in hurry or whatever to harvest it, i just want it to grow naturally for medical use
Dani Alchimia 2016-01-11
Hi zaber420, Outdoor plants are much more resistant to bad climate conditions than indoor plants. Still, if outside temperatures drop below 15 degrees celsius, it is a good idea – if you can – to put them indoors until temps raise a bit (also if it is raining hard or there is strong wind). One thing though: as soon as your plants start flowering, you can continue putting them indoors (at nights, for example) as long as you don’t interrupt the night period of plants, so put them away from any light source if they are in their night period. Hope it helped!
Richie Rich 2015-12-18
Wonderful thread ? I would like to start germinating inside till they are ready to be introduced outside. The seeds I have are: Females. Panama, Frisan Dew & Purple Pineberry. I live in Quebec and the due date should be around August or October. I would like to know how early should I start germinating and when should I slowly introduce them to the OUTSIDE world. Hours of light during germinating and then on vegging. Don’t mind having huge plant. All Soil/Organic/Pots. Thanks a TON P.S. First time seed grower. Usual clone grower so very despret to germ around Feb.
Dani Alchimia 2015-12-22
Hi Richie, Basically, seeds have the same behaviour as clones when vegging. They’ll grow non-stop under a 18/6 photoperiod, but will need around 3-4 weeks to reach sexual maturity and be able to bloom. If you want a regular outdoor crop (to be harvested in August/October), I would start my seeds indoors at around Feb and let them grow indoors until June. By the end of May you can place them outside on a shady area for a couple of days, after which you can put them under the sun. You can also perform a spring crop before the summer crop by germinating your seeds in December and put them outside in late February (you’d harvest by late May-early June). Here you have a post on off-season cannabis crops. Hope it helped!
I have blackjack feminine seed just planted using coco coir.my room has two window which sunlight shine into the room 8 hour on day time and i use LED and CFL light for another 9 hour . I may have a problem as the plant grow taller i may need to close the window mirrors and sunlight light will not be enough and i have to add on with the lights. Room will be hot 33c and will use aircond to cool the air down .all year round my place is like summer and a lot of rain so planting outside is impossible.Night will be around 25/26c. I was told because the uv sun that have been giving the plant it will be big and tall .
Dani Alchimia 2015-12-22
Hi Anthony, I suppose you will stop using the artificial lighting as soon as you switch your plants to flowering and use only sunlight. Try to keep your room as ventilated as possible while you are not using the air conditioning. Ever thought of building something similar to a greenhouse? A plastic roof for your plants to grow outside? All the best!
Hi! We live in Northern Cali and just got a bunch of Dr. GreenThumb’s ECSD (feminized). I was wondering if we can start the germinated seeds Feb 1st inside at 13 hours of light and then take out to a green house in March (has a heater so frost isn’t an issue) when the photo period reaches 13-ish hours such that the plants are not shocked from a change in hours of light. Would they flower since it is only 13 hours of light outside or are they not sexually developed enough and we would be okay? We would official plant outside May 14th and hopefully finish October. We are just trying to start as early as possible as this is our retirement year :-/
Dani Alchimia 2015-12-10
Hi Mollyj, If you start your seeds indoors at 13 hours, they’ll not have a growth period but start flowering as soon as they reach sexual maturity (3-4 weeks). If you want really big plants, you should germinate them under a 18/6 photoperiod and keep them inside until May, when the natural photoperiod allows us to take our indoor plants outside to grow them normally, as any other outdoor crop. Another option, especially if you have a heated greenhouse, is germinating the seeds in March and place them in the greenhouse until April/May (depending on temperatures). When starting your seeds directly outdoors, it doesn’t change much starting them on February or March; if they have enough space for a nice rootball, they’ll grow big and tall even if planted later. Hope it helped! 😉
I have plants veg inside it is now Oct 9 2015 can I take them outside to start flowering or just flower inside the temp are 70-80 degrees outside temp drop to 40 at night in Colorado I know I won’t yield a lot but will they finish to harvest smoke able bud
Dani Alchimia 2015-10-09
Hi Nick2323, 40F is a really low temperature. You could use a heater for greenhouses at night (of course with a greenhouse), or try to put the plants inside at nights. You can also try products like Evoponic’s Liquid Heat, which greatly help plants to deal with colder climates. Hope it helped, All the best!
I started out doors. im in a climate in Asia where it stays hot all the time and doesnt have seasonal changes. is it a good idea to move plants indoors? the plants are big and fairly bushy but without buds. if i move them to a cool/dark spot inside will they start the flowering period and bud out? if so what times should i keep the photoperiod?
Dani Alchimia 2015-10-01
Hi Cichise, First of all we should know the approximate natural photoperiod of your area (latitude). That would help us to know if you should start indoors and take the plants out or if you can start outdoors directly. Anyway, if your plants are out and they don’t flower you can try to cover them for 2-3 hours a day (coinciding with the sunrise or the sunset) so they have more hours of darkness. That would surely force them to flower. Hope it helped!
edit: I mean temperatures in fall or winter on the sunroof wouldn’t be a problem.
Hello! Interesting blog, I have some questions. We’re pretty new to growing and we’re growing some feminized seeds here in a Greenhouse outside on the balcony in Spain at a 18/6 light schedule with LEDs. (The balcony is in the shade otherwise, this is why we use lights) I cannot force a 12/12 light schedule in the greenhouse because there are also other plants in the gh, plus the greenhouse is not “light proof”. My plan is to put the plants outdoors on the sunroof when they’re ready which would likely be in late September, or October. (Earlier than that it’s WAY too hot and the sun is way too intensive on the sun-roof, I am talking about 48C (110F) in the summer. Since we live in Spain, temperatures are not a problem. My question is whether this would work, whether the plants should start flowering as soon as I put them up on the roof? (Since the sunlight hours then will be shorter than the 18hrs I have in the greenhouse). But I am afraid it might be too late (would they even flower in October??). or they might get a shock from the different conditions? There is still plenty of sun on the sun-roof, even in Winter.
Dani Alchimia 2015-08-25
Hi George, Probably, your plants will start flowering as soon as you remove them from your current 18/6 light schedule and put them on the sunroof. If you think you could grow during spring/autumn, I suggest you read this article on off-season outdoor crops. Best vibes!
Hey Dani, I got a question. I’ve been growing my plants for about 4 and a half weeks and they just started to show signs of budding. I want to take 2 of my 11 plants and put them outside, but my 12 hour cycle is from 7 pm to 7 am. So how would I go about moving them
Dani Alchimia 2015-07-20
Hi caine, First of all, you must notice that if you take your plants outside now, they’ll stop flowering and start growing again. You should wait until August to take them out if you only want them to bud. This is because plants grow with the current natural photoperiod, so you should wait around 2-3 weeks until outdoor plants naturally start flowering. If you put them out, it is always better for them to be in darkness for 24 hours: take them out at night so the next day they’ll start their new photoperiod. As you’ll take them out with strong sunlight (July-August), put them in a shady spot for a couple of days so they get used to their new environment. After these 2 days, put them on the sunniest spot you find. Hope it helped, Best vibes!
My Question Can you take an outdoor plant and grow it indoors cuz i wanna let it grow outside for 2 or 3 months and then put it indoors under the grow lights. Is It Possible that they can grow indoors and adapt to the New Environment From Being Outside?
Dani Alchimia 2015-07-08
Hi Charles, Usually, when moving plants indoors from the outside, we have several things to keep in mind: pot size (perhaps the pots used outdoors are too big for our indoor growing space), photoperiod (do you want to flower them indoors, or just grow them a bit more?) and pests (normally, there are far more insects in our outdoor garden than indoors. Beware not to introduce a pest in your indoor grow room from your outdoor plants!). Hope it helped Best vibes!
Germinating Cannabis Seeds with Paper Towel
One of the best ways to germinate your precious new cannabis seeds is to use the paper towel method. Use this step by step tutorial for germinating cannabis seeds with paper towel as a reference when sprouting your seeds.
Step 1 (Optional)
Soak your seeds in water for 12 to 24 hours and store in a dark location. It is very important that your seeds do not sit in the water for more than 24 hours because you run the risk of drowning them. Set a timer and don’t forget! I generally skip this step and go right to the wet paper towel.
Step 2 (Germinating Cannabis Seeds with Paper Towel)
Whether or not you soak your seeds in water (see step 1), will have no impact on how you will approach this step. The key to being successful begins with your set up. For this step, you will need a plate, a paper towel, a zip lock bag and some clean water.
Begin by wetting your paper towel on your plate. The paper towel should be completely wet, but not drenched. Drain the excess water.
You are now ready to place your seeds. Fold the wet paper towel in a way so that your seeds are sandwiched between.
Finally its time for the zip lock bag. Place your plate inside the zip lock bag and seal it. The zip lock bag will seal in the moisture and eliminate the risk of your paper towel drying out.
Place your seeds in a dark spot and don’t touch them for at least 2 days. Room temperature will play a big role in how fast they germinate. Ultimately, you want your room temperature around 70 to 75 degrees. This will create a environment where your seeds should flourish. Check on your seeds after 2 to 3 days and see how they are doing. As soon as they sprout, you should plant them right into your favorite organic soil.
Hopefully this quick rundown gives you a better understanding for germinating cannabis seeds. Its pretty easy and straightforward. You shouldn’t have any trouble, the biggest mistake is forgetting about them! Just be sure to check on them regularly. If you need seeds, there are plenty of reputable seeds retailers around. Seeds can be bought all over the world and some of the best seed growers are located in Europe and Canada.
Top 10 germination and seedling mistakes
Most seed germination issues can be sourced back to the germination method. This is an area where Dutch Passion have extensive expertise and can offer accurate, professional advice for seed germination issues.
Dutch Passion have been helping growers with their cannabis seed requirements since the 1980’s. Few in the seed business can claim more experience. Many of the early problems that growers deal with involve issues with germination of the cannabis seeds and subsequent growth of the seedlings.
Below are the 10 cannabis seed germination topics which generate the most feedback and questions from growers. Hopefully you will learn something which can improve the success of your future grows.
1. Watering too much, or too little… or both!
Perhaps the most common seed germination issues are related to the amount of water (and the germination technique) used to produce seed germination. A lot of cannabis seed germination issues are caused when the seeds are overwatered and soaked. Soaking seeds, or giving them an environment with too much water, causes seeds to stagnate and stop developing.
Soaking cannabis seeds causes them to stagnate.
When a cannabis seed germinates, a small white root will emerge. However, if the cannabis seed is soaked for too long in waterlogged conditions the root will stop growing and eventually start to rot. An indication of root rot is a brown colouration on the root or the root tip. Cannabis roots need oxygen as well as moisture to thrive. But if the roots are soaked for too long, there is insufficient oxygen for root health to be maintained and root rot can begin.
Conversely, seed germination issues are also seen when the cannabis seed dries out due to insufficient moisture. This can happen when growers try to germinate their seeds between moist cotton pads but forget to put them in a sealed container e.g a dinner plate sealed with some transparent kitchen film.
Without moisture, the cannabis root simply dries out and dies. Under high magnification you will notice that the tap root is covered with numerous delicate root hairs. These will dry out and die unless the root is kept in moist (but never soaked) conditions. You will notice the cannabis root turning brown. Just as with an over-watered seed, once the root is showing discolouration and dying it is often damaged beyond repair.
Soaked cotton pads, saturated tissues or even waterlogged soil in a closed container all show the same issue when soaked. Soaked seeds won’t develop roots at all or they will stop their development.
So make sure your environment is moist but never soaked, and give your feminised seeds and autoflower seeds the best chance to germinate. Note that there are no differences in the techniques used to germinate feminised seeds and autoflower seeds, the same germination methods are used.
It’s also worth adding that the appearance of a cannabis seed (colour, size, shape etc) won’t have any influence on the speed of germination.
|Everything you need to know about cannabis roots
What does the appearance of a cannabis seed indicate?
How much water should I use for a successful germination?
If you are germinating your cannabis seeds between lightly sprayed cotton pads, the pads only need 5 short sprays to moisten them. Remember, the key principle is to provide a healthy environment with both moisture and some air. If you try to germinate your cannabis seeds in a water-saturated environment for too long the roots will simply rot. It doesn’t matter whether that environment is cotton pads, soil or any other material. Moist conditions will work, but sodden/saturated conditions will eventually cause the root to rot and die.
One of the most reliable ways to germinate cannabis seeds is simply to place them between two cotton pads which have been lightly sprayed 5 times with water. Just leave the pads for a couple of days in a sealed environment so that the cotton pads don’t dry out. The golden rule is to spray the pads lightly. Cannabis seeds thrive in moist conditions but can die quickly in soaked conditions
|Cotton Pad germination video tutorial
Soil germination video tutorial
How long for germination of weed seeds?
Usually it takes somewhere between a couple of days to a week for your cannabis seeds to germinate. Occasionally seeds can take a couple of weeks. To avoid seed germination issues, remember the important basic principle for cannabis seeds; offer an environment which balances moisture with some aeration for root development. Therefore, germinating your seeds in a light soil mix will give better results than a heavy clay-based soil.
How often to water weed seedlings? / When and how much water to give to cannabis seedlings?
Watering should be offered only to keep the soil moist and prevent it from drying out. Remember that the small cannabis root (often called a tap root) will need to absorb very little moisture initially. The main focus is to allow the root to develop through a light, aerated grow medium which doesn’t obstruct the root growth, not should it allow the root to dry out.
2. Germinating cannabis seeds outdoors
Many people love to germinate their cannabis seeds outdoors, especially outdoor/greenhouse growers. Why not? That’s the way that seeds have evolved over millions of years to germinate. However, it’s worth noting that in nature a plant can produce hundred/thousands of seeds but only need a few of them to make it past germination in order for the next generation to survive. Cannabis growers, on the other hand, like to see germination rates of 90%-100%, especially if they have bought premium cannabis seeds for their specific requirements and grow location.
However, outdoor growers can struggle to achieve good germination rates if they rely on outdoor seed germination. Conditions can fluctuate dramatically, especially during the unpredictable early season weather.
Temperatures and/or weather can swing significantly between night and day, reducing germination rates and killing weaker seedlings. If the weather is cold and wet with persistent rain, the seeds may simply rot in the ground and never emerge. Even if they do, slugs/snails/birds may get to the seedlings before you do.
If the early season weather produces a heat wave, your seeds may dry out if the roots haven’t been able to reach deep enough for moisture. Germinating cannabis seeds outdoors may work for some seeds, but it’s not recommended for the highest germination rates.
Those that germinate cannabis seeds outdoors in containers may find that the containers get very hot in direct sunlight – especially dark/black coloured containers which absorb the suns heat. Temperatures around (or above) 35ºC/95ºF can kill the seeds/seedlings through excessive heat. That’s why many successful outdoor cannabis growers prefer to germinate their cannabis seeds indoors where conditions can be opted to minimise seed germination issues.
What is the best temperature for germinating cannabis seeds?
The temperatures found in an average house, 20ºC – 25ºC are perfect for cannabis seed germination.
Many serious outdoor growers germinate their seeds indoors to maximise germination rates and then perhaps grow their seedlings indoors under artificial light for a couple of weeks to give them the best possible start before risking them in the great outdoors. It’s the best way to avoid seed germination issues and ensure the maximum number of your precious cannabis seeds make it into healthy adult plants.
|Outdoor cannabis seed collection from Dutch Passion
Best ways to grow cannabis outdoors
3. Overheating seedlings with heating mats
For good cannabis seed germination rates you need both moisture and warmth. Seeds which might germinate at ambient indoor temperatures in summer may not germinate quite so easily in winter in a cold part of your house. Sometimes during the cooler months, the indoor temperature may need a small boost. That’s why many growers use an electrically powered, plug-in heating mat. This can be set to a specific temperature to provide the warmth required to avoid seed germination issues.
Overheating cannabis seeds will slowly cook and destroy your seedlings.
The plant pots, or propagator, simply sit on top of the heat mat. These can be a great solution for cold periods in winter. However the Dutch Passion team have come across cases where heat mats are used all year round. In summer, this is unnecessary and can result in overheated plant containers and seeds which have been damaged/destroyed by the high temperature.
When indoor temperatures are already 20-25 ºC there is no reason to risk adding extra heat, especially if it can’t escape. The danger is overheated soil and sterilised seeds. In combination with excess moisture/excess water, cannabis seeds and the delicate tissues inside are slowly cooked and destroyed. This can occur if the excess heat from the mat can’t escape and builds up in the plant containers over time.
Should I use a heating mat for germination?
Yes you can, but use them during colder periods such as winter time. You may also wish to use a thermometer to confirm that temperatures are being maintained within the preferred 20-25ºC range.
What temperature should I put my heating mat on?
Because heat can build up in soil or in a propagator, be sure not to set the temperature too high. Temperature settings of around 20-22 degrees should ensure a nice warm environment, without risking overheating.
4. Fertilising cannabis seedlings incorrectly
When seedlings first sprout they are very sensitive to their growing environment. Strong light at close range will damage their delicate leaf tissues easily. Temperature extremes and large temperature swings/cold nights can also be fatal to them. That is why you have to be careful growing your seedlings in the first 1-2 weeks.
A common mistake seen by the Dutch Passion customer service team is excessive nutrition/fertiliser being given to seedlings. Cannabis growers often use a wide variety of nutrients/fertilisers to grow their plants. Sometimes they make the mistake of adding a lot of these during the first stages of growing. In the worst cases, this can permanently stunt growth, or kill the plant.
Seedlings and their delicate root systems can’t handle a nutrient rich environment very well. Nor were they designed to. The seedlings have everything they need for a healthy initial germination and development inside the seed itself. That is how nature made them. So when seeds first sprout, they don’t need any fertilizer at all!
When to start using nutrients with germinated cannabis seeds?
Many growers prefer not to add any fertilizer or additives during the first week of growth. Your seedling will not need it at this time, and will only be damaged if exposed to an excess of nutrients or fertilizer. If you are growing in a good quality soil, you may not need to add any extra nutrients for a week or two. Even then, you should only consider weak/starter nutrients and slowly build up concentrations.
5. Germinating seeds in jiffy pods, coffee filters and rockwool cubes
Of all methods used for germination, these methods are the ones that give the most issues and are often done incorrectly. This is backed up from customer feedback and the 30+ years of experience from the Dutch Passion customer service team. During the decades of seed supply, Dutch Passion (and their customers) have accumulated extensive experience of which cannabis seed germination methods are safe to use, and which are best to avoid.
Of course, many growers will argue that these methods have always worked well for them. But that doesn’t mean that the methods are completely bullet-proof with a wide working latitude for everyone.
Some growers find that cannabis seed germination in jiffy pods work pretty well. The main concern for the Dutch Passion team is that these methods are not quite as bullet-proof with the same wide-latitude as the preferred method of germinating cannabis seeds between moist cotton pads.
Experience from the Dutch Passion team is that there are many ways to incorrectly perform cannabis seed germination with jiffy pods, coffee filters and rock wool cubes. You may be better off using a safer, less troublesome method with a wider working latitude and reduced risk of getting it wrong. Therefore Dutch Passion recommend customers not to use them.
What is wrong with germinating seeds in Jiffy pods?
Water has to be added to jiffy pods in order to use them. The Dutch Passion team have seen many cases where growers completely soaked the jiffies before use. Other growers will even stand the jiffy pods in a shallow tray of water while seeds are germinating in them. In the worst cases, this results in a soaked environment in which cannabis seeds won’t germinate (or with reduced germination rates).
Jiffy seed pods work well for larger seeds e.g. beans, where there is less to go wrong. But for cannabis seeds there can be seed germination issues when used incorrectly and for that reason Jiffy pods are not recommended.
What is wrong with germinating seeds Rock wool cubes?
Rock wool cubes are sometimes used for germination, but perhaps they are used more often for creating clones and allowing cuttings to develop new roots. For that purpose they work well. When used for germination, however, the same issues can occur as with the jiffies. Overwatering, overheating or placing the seeds too deep in the rock wool (glasswool) cube can cause seed germination issues for less experienced growers. Therefore rock wool cubes are not preferred if you’re looking for a low risk method for germinating your autoflower seeds or feminised seeds.
What is wrong with germinating cannabis seeds in coffee filters?
One of the more unusual and unwieldy methods for cannabis seed germination is the use of coffee filters. The seed tip is placed pointing downwards inside a wet coffee filter, inside a large sealed bag. This is often hung from a hanger against a door or inside a closet. The idea is that the roots grow downwards by hanging them vertically.
Along with many things that can go wrong with this method, we feel it’s unnecessarily complicated, gravity will always make sure roots find their way down anyway. Therefore we do not recommend customers to use it. One of the main risks is that the coffee filter will hold too much water and soak the seeds, causing root rot.
What methods work best for germinating cannabis seeds?
There are a lot of methods that can be used, but some have higher margins for errors. The methods may work fine for others but not necessarily you e.g. due to too much water being present at the root level. One of the most common cannabis seed germination methods is still the moist cotton pad method (or moist kitchen tissue). Customers are free to use a method which works best for them. However the Dutch Passion team feel that there are less things to go wrong, and maximum chances of success with the moist cotton pad method.
Is soaking seeds in a glass of water a good germination method?
As previously mentioned, cannabis seeds like a moist environment but do not perform well in soaked/saturated one. When they are exposed to a soaked environment e.g. several days in a glass of water, you may experience seed germination issues. This is especially the case when the seed is left soaking for long periods.
Many people soak their seeds in a glass of water for a day before putting them on moist cotton pads or moist kitchen tissue. The Dutch Passion customer service team feel that this is an unnecessary step. Seeds will absorb moisture from water or cotton pads in just the same way without the risk of root rot associated with over-soaking your seeds.
If you are planning to germinate your cannabis seeds in soil and wish to soak them in a glass of water first, we advise to soak them for no longer than 12 hours.
6. Damping off cannabis seedlings
‘Damping off’ is a disease which affects seedlings. It is caused by several different fungi (and fungus-like) organisms. This disease causes a thin stem which is unable to support the emerging seedling. The result is that the seedlings collapse, often under a white mass of fungal growth.
Damping off is most common in young seedlings and can be caused by overwatering your soil. It also happens when you use contaminated soil, e.g. from your back garden. The fungi Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, alongside Pythium plant parasites are the most common pathogens responsible for damping off. Note that Pythium is often transported around on the feet of fungus gnats, which can be a common pest in soils made with composted wood.
Once your seedling starts suffering from damping off, there is little you can do to save it.
How to avoid damping off my seedlings?
If you use fresh soil, and make sure you don’t overwater it, there should be little risk of damping off. Once plants have mature leaves and a well developed root system, they are better able to naturally resist the fungus that causes damping off.
7. Stretching seedlings caused by lack of light
After your cannabis seeds have successfully germinated it’s time to provide good care for your seedlings. This includes light, one of the most important factors for healthy plant development. Once your seedlings have sprouted it’s important to provide it with good quality lighting, either natural sunlight or an artificial indoor grow light. If the lighting is too powerful, it can kill a vulnerable new seedling. Some growers like to use specially designed ‘T5’ fluorescent tubes for cultivating seedlings, or perhaps some LED light bars designed for seedlings.
Stretching cannabis seedlings due to insufficient lighting.
But if the lighting is of an insufficient strength, the seedlings will ‘stretch’ upwards in an attempt to find the light. In the worst cases, this can cause serious issues or cause the seedling to die. This happens when the elongated stem simply is unable to support its own weight.
Light remains one of the most important environmental factors in growing a cannabis plant. Growing in a poorly illuminated environment with low light levels results in a stretched out plant with few leaves. What leaves there are tend to be very small in size. Because leaves are the “solar panels” that collect energy for the flowers, your yield will also be minimal in low light conditions.
How do I fix stretching cannabis seedlings?
It’s not necessarily the biggest problem if your seedlings have stretched, so long as you support the stems in time. This can be done with a small support, such as a small stick/cane. Some growers support a stretched seedling with a short length of drinking straw which has been slit down the side with scissors.
Most plants will recover and grow up to become healthy plants. Once the seedling has sufficient light it will stop stretching and instead use the energy to develop bigger/more leaves and a healthy plant/root structure. If you have stretched seedlings in their original pre-grow containers, you can also fix the issue by transplanting them into a new container and covering the elongated stem with soil.
The use of gradually increasing light is highly recommend for seedlings after a successful germination.
What is the best type of lights for cannabis seedlings?
The use of gradually increasing light is highly recommend for seedlings after a successful germination. Initially this can be done with relatively simple Fluorescent lights (e.g. T5/T8) or CFL’s (Compact Fluorescent lights). Both types are frequently used for the first couple of weeks after germination and provide the plants with ample blue dominant light for the first weeks of growth.
Other relatively inexpensive options are LED seedling light bars like the SanLight Flex series. These are long-lasting, high quality lights. Many modern growers have invested in specialist lighting for seedlings and get great results. But note that these seedling lights lack the power to grow mature cannabis plants. You will need a high powered light for bloom. HPS lights are a common choice and are cheap, though a high quality LED grow light will give a superior light spectrum, reduced heat stress, longer life and superior quality/results.
|How to grow weed easily indoors, expert tips and advice|
How do you know when it’s time to go from seedling to veg lighting?
Once cannabis seedlings are a couple of weeks old, many growers will move them from their ‘seedling light’ to a light which is a little more powerful. Allowing the seedlings a week or two to gain some strength before transferring them to a grow room containing the more powerful full spectrum lights is generally regarded as good practice.
Some lights that are perfect for seedlings are:
- Fluoresced lights T5/T8
- San light flex series
- Growspec Sunray Series
- California Lightworks Solar System Veg Light (Or SolarSystem + optional controller).
Since their introduction, LED lights have improved significantly. Affordability has also improved and LED is now the first choice for serious, professional cannabis growers.
Quality LED lights with full spectrum control can be used from the vegetive phase through to harvest. Light spectrum can be adjusted along the way ensuring that the plants always receive optimised light. The best spectrum for veg is blue dominant spectrum with perhaps some white. Blue spectrum light (400-500nm) will promotes healthy vegetative growth producing large, strong and healthy leaves and branches.
Examples of LED lights with a full cycle (veg to harvest) controllable spectrum are those from California Lightworks and GrowSpec. The California Lightworks Solar System series also includes purpose designed ‘veg’ lights with a fixed blue dominant spectrum.
Of course, cannabis seedlings can also be grown with excellent quality results under full spectrum (LED) lights as long as the correct light distance-to-canopy is maintained. Check with the manufacturers guidelines, which will vary according to the size and power of the LED light. Growers are often cautious to carefully acclimatise their seedlings when switching them from seedling lights to powerful ‘main grow room’ lights.
This can be done simply by ensuring that the main grow light is hoisted to a high position in the grow room, well above the seedlings. As the seedlings start to mature the light-to-plant distance can be gradually reduced. Once in full bloom, the plant is ready for maximum light levels.
When and how long to put seedlings under light?
It’s best to refer to the specific guidelines from the lights manufacturers. Grow lights come in a wide range of sizes and power outputs designed for different hanging heights and different sized grow rooms.
How long to light seedlings? Most people give the seedlings 18-24 hours of daily light. This allows them to grow leaves, roots and branches but not buds. Flowering only starts when light hours are reduced to around 12 hours per day, usually after around 4-6 weeks of vegetative growth.
8. Choosing the wrong type of soil to germinate seeds
Using some soil from their back garden to germinate cannabis seeds in is something the Dutch Passion customer service team see from time to time. This is usually a beginners mistake, or an attempt to cut a few corners and save cash. But it really isn’t recommended.
Sometimes the soil is healthy enough, and seeds will germinate without issues. But in many cases, the soil is too sandy (or too heavy with a high clay content). Garden soil may also contain unhelpful mold/fungi/pests or it may be too strongly fertilised. Often soil from the growers compost pile is used for seedlings.
The logic is that it is fresh, natural and perfect for growing. However, freshly composted soil can often be very nutrient rich. Perfect for mature plants, but toxic to seedlings, which are delicate and need only light nutrition (if any).
In other cases where garden soil has been used you may see mold developing over the soil surface, giving it a white discolouration. Seedlings affected by mold can have a high risk of damping off and dying.
What type of soil should I use for germinating cannabis seeds?
For the best result make sure you use clean, fresh soil. This can be found in a garden centre or grow shop. It may be described as a ‘light soil’ mix or a seedling soil. Don’t use strongly fertilised soil. Normal potting soil is often good to use. But for optimal results we advise a 50/50 mix of light-mix and coco substrate. This mixture is very easy for roots to grow in, and has just enough nutrients for the seedlings to get started.
When your seedling is 1-2 weeks old, the roots and plant can handle more nutrients and a very light feeding schedule can be used. When it comes to nutrients and young plants, err on the side of caution. It is better to feed plants with weak nutrients and slowly build up nutrient concentrations than to start with strong nutrients which can damage or kill young plants.
Also recommended are products like the Biotabs Starterkit. This allows you to prepare your soil in advance for the entire grow with slow-release organic nutrients. All you have to do then is water your plant, and leave nature to do the rest.
9. Not transplanting autoflower seedling to a larger size pot in time
Since the introduction of autoflowers years ago, this has been a common issue. While photoperiod plants can stay in a small container for a longer period of time during veg growth, autoflower plants may not always respond well to it. Autoflowers benefit greatly from a good start and a decent sized container. Therefore providing good care of them during the first weeks is important. Remember that autoflower seeds produce plants with a fixed life span and no time to recover if they have been root bound in a small container for too long.
A key role in this is the cannabis root system. Autoflowers have a main root stem that grows straight down. If this root is interrupted or damaged, it will result in a tiny plant. So it’s very important to transplant your autoflower to a large pot in time, also known as “potting up”.
Many growers will tell you that you have to germinate your autoflower in it’s final pot. However this can make the germination process a little more difficult. Instead, germination in a smaller sized container e.g. about 1 litre is a good alternative. You can keep your autoflower in this pot for about a week (maximum 2 – 2.5 weeks) and then transplant it to the final pot. In many tests over the years this has never caused a problem. When “potting up” do make sure the main root has enough room to point all the way down, by digging a deep enough hole.
When and how to transplant cannabis seedlings in a bigger pot?
How to transplant a seedling? One easy way is to fill the larger container with grow medium and then make a ‘hole’ in it with the small container currently containing your seedling. This will be the perfect size for the root ball of your seedling. But make sure that you don’t over-compact the new grow medium when you make the hole.
Many growers will water the new grow medium well before transplanting the seedling in it, this allows the roots to quickly expand into their new territory. Some growers sprinkle some beneficial Mycorrhizal bacteria into the hole to assist onward root development.
What pot size should I use to grow autoflowers?
When growing autoflower seeds most growers find that they perform well in any pot from 10 litres and above. However, because of the limited life cycle of about 11 weeks, there is no need to go much larger than 30 litres. And of course you can also plant your autoflower plants directly into the outdoor earth in your garden, without any pot restriction.
What pot size should I use to grow photoperiod cannabis plants?
When growing feminised photoperiod seeds, the plant can be maintained in veg growth until you are ready to reduce daily light hours to induce bloom. This means that you can keep a plant for several weeks in a smaller plant container, perhaps 10 litres or so, until bloom.
As you get ready to flip the plant into bloom, many growers will take the opportunity to first transplant it into a larger container. But much depends on the space constraints in your grow room, the number of plants you wish to grow, the period of veg growth and other factors. There will be a large difference, for example, in the container sizes used for Sea Of Green (SOG) growing vs Screen Of Green (SCROG cannabis cultivation method)
|How to grow cannabis with the Sea Of Green (SOG) method
How to grow cannabis with the Screen Of Green (SCROG) method
10. Sowing cannabis seeds too deep in the soil
Cannabis seeds don’t need to be buried deeply to germinate well. Placing your autoflower seeds or feminised seeds 3-5mm deep is sufficient for a fast and healthy germination. Your seed should not be deeper than 10mm. If you place the seed to deep, it will have trouble making it to the surface. While it’s trying to do so, the risks of rotting, overheating and getting damaged increase.
Sowing your autoflower or feminised seeds 3-5mm deep is sufficient for a fast and healthy germination.
In rare cases some growers have been known to simply scatter their seeds on top of the soil, like sowing a grain field. This method is definitely not recommended.
How deep do you sow cannabis seeds?
We advise a 3-5mm depth. But make sure not to go deeper than 1cm.
Bonus tip: How to get the seed shell off a weed seedling
many growers have been tempted to ‘help’ their plants germinate by trying to pull the seed shell off the weed seedling. This is simply never recommended. Pulling the seed shell off before it is ready can damage the seedling which derives some nutrition from the seed before it is discarded.
In the worst cases, the seed shell simply sticks to one of the cotyledon leaves (the first pair of baby leaves) where it will do no harm. Just leave the seed shell, it’s not worth risking the removal of it.
Hopefully this article has given you some useful advice and helpful information. Cannabis seed germination isn’t difficult if you follow a few proven rules and principles. Good luck, and enjoy growing!
11 Comments . Leave new
excellent article thank you very much Dutch passion,realy good one.
Had a seed shell stuck, so much that it ripped off the other cotaledan off at the base. It’s almost three weeks old now, still just a nice green 1 coteledan leaf, sure hope she pulls out of it and grows. As long as it stays sturdy and green I’ll let it be. Let ya know what happens. If and when that may be, I try to make a few leafs appear everyday when I scope it, but so far nothing yet. There’s still hope
if your talking about an auto my friend then that seedling is finished due to the life span they have once they sprout they have a life span of about 10 to 11 weeks and in that time they have to veg and flower if ur veg cycle is weak then ur flower cycle will be almost none existant
Can I start my seeds inside in my grow room, and then transfer them to my greenhouse with different lighting and different lighting time due to the early season?
As long as you are not too early in the growing season this should be fine.
Your plants can get a nice start if you start the growing process indoors
Thanks for the actual sound information, I wish I found this a few weeks ago. As a new grower I’m finding the hardest part of growing to be finding solid reliable information amongst the sea of first year masters.
This is my first year growing from seed and am 1/7 with my first batch and 1/14 (two days in) on my second run of seeds. I’m gearing I’ve over watered both times in my pods. Is it worth while trying to ring them out to try and dry them out a bit or just leave them be and pray?
We are very welcome!
When seeds are starting to germinate they are very delicate, so I do not advice you to try to take them out and let them dry. Best to hope these will survive and next time you should follow our guides
I have a small amount of seeds from a plant I grew last year. Second generation. Unknown origin. Extremely potent. The female plant sprouted a single male pollen sac stem, and produced the small amount of seeds on the plant. The seeds are like no other that I have ever seen in my over 50 years of using, and over 10 years growing cannabis. When put in a small container, they stick to each other, and glaze over with a resin-coated glaze. Have you ever seen or heard of seeds like these? Even when removed from container and separated, then put back in container, they reglaze over again. Excited to attempt to grow this year, outdoors. Any germination tips for such sticky seeds? Thank you!
Hello Bud Farmer,
That’s is a strange occurrence you have with your seeds, the thing we think of when you say a resin-coated glaze is THC. But this is not a normal thing for seeds to contain. Our advice is to stick to the regular germination advice we give here and wish you good luck with this years grow!
I have never grown a plant before. I hot some homegrown and it was littered with seeds, so I planted two, and now have two plants. The are doing well, I can see the little round leaves, then two little pot leaves, and today I noticed two more little pot leaves growing from the middle of that. They are loving the outdoors. I water in the AM and in the PM. I have been doing alot of reading, and now I am so confused. What stage am I in and what should I be looking for if they are doing good? Oh, and how do I know if it is a male or female?